Schlüchttal Tannholzwand
Tannholzwand is a wonderful wall, one of the main attractions of Schlüchttal, with routes that go up to 60m in length. In particular the upper wall is superb, although to get there often involves a couple of slightly dirty pitches. These are not bad, can remain wet after prolonged rain, and in many ways add to the alpine nature of the place. There are now so many bolted routes on the walls that route finding can be difficult, not knowing which line of bolts to follow and where the variations go. The plus side to this is that the upper pitches at least are well protected. Nuts and friends are occasionally needed on some routes, particularly those in the lower grades. As with the rest of Schlüchttal, on sunny summer weekends, the road can get noisy from the motorbikes enjoying the bends in the valley.
From Waldshut follow the directions to Witznau. Just past the Gasthof Witznau turn into Schlüchtal. The crags lie along the next few kilometers of road. Tannholzwand is right next to the road on the right hand side , about 600m from Gasthof Witznau. Difficult to miss. Parking is either 100m before or 100m after the cliff. It is less than 5 minutes walking to the base of the routes.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10 | Schermuus | 4b | 50m | *** | 3 pitches, some bolts, take friends and nuts. |
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| 11 | Himmelbett | 7a+ | 18m | *** | Starts as for Schermuus, but climbs direct over two roofs to the lower off at the end of the first pitch of Schermuus. |
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| 13 | Romacker-Ged.-Weg | 5b | 50m | *** | Two good pitches. The crux is moving out of the corner on the first pitch. |
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| 14 | Faustkampf | 6a+ | 50m | *** | Three pitches. An enjoyable first followed by a pumpy crack. |
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| 16 | Silberblattverschneidung | 6a | 40m | *** | Two pitches with a difficult slab move at the start. There is also a slightly more difficult right hand variation start to the first pitch. |
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| 21 | Diplomatenweg | 4b | 50m | ** | Starts by the chain. This is also the way to reach the start of the routes at the left hand side of the upper wall |
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| 23 | Dornröschen | 6a | 20m | *** | A steep juggy wall |
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| 25 | Beat Berreth Ged. Weg | 7a | 25m | *** | Two pitches, each with their difficulties. Can be climbed in one long run out. |
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| 27 | Andacht | 7a | 10m | *** | A direct finish from the last belay of beat-Berreth |
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| 28 | Phönix | 7a+ | 20m | *** | Starts at the black streak left of Autobahn and climbs to join that route, before leaving it to finish with a hard move to the belay of Beat-Berreth |
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| 30 | Autobahn | 7a+ | 30m | *** | Technical edge climbing. The hardest moves can be avoided on the left or right |
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| 31 | Discovery | 6c | 30m | *** | The direct line between Autobahn and Super Direkte. Easier than those routes, but a tricky start. |
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| 32 | Super Direkte | 7a | 30m | *** | A long pitch with the crux in the middle |
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| 34 | Gelbe Kante | 6a+ | 25m | *** | The arete, following the yellow bolts |
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| 41 | Licht und Schatten | 5c | 50m | *** | Two pitches, the difficulties are in the second pitch |
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| 48 | Ruta 40 | 5b | 35m | *** | Two pitches, starting just above the bench. Originally climbed without the bolts, and even with them it doesnt feel overprotected. |
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| 62 | Sonnenpfeiler | 4c | ** | Climbs the striking pillar on the right hand side of the upper crag |
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| 70 | SECTOR | CHRÜZFELSENFLÜH. The lower section of Tannholzwand is often wet, but has some fine routes |
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| 74 | Dunjazade | 6c | 15m | *** | Up the middle of the slab, over the small overlap |
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| 84 | Geist aus der Lampe | 6a | 15m | *** | Steep slab climbing |
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| 86 | Ali Baba und die 40 Räuber | 7a | 20m | *** | Slab, then a crack through the roof |
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| 87 | Schwuler Eunuch | 7b | 20m | *** | Bouldery start then a technical corner |
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