Schlüchttal Tannholzwand

Tannholzwand is a wonderful wall, one of the main attractions of Schlüchttal, with routes that go up to 60m in length. In particular the upper wall is superb, although to get there often involves a couple of slightly dirty pitches. These are not bad, can remain wet after prolonged rain, and in many ways add to the alpine nature of the place. There are now so many bolted routes on the walls that route finding can be difficult, not knowing which line of bolts to follow and where the variations go. The plus side to this is that the upper pitches at least are well protected. Nuts and friends are occasionally needed on some routes, particularly those in the lower grades. As with the rest of Schlüchttal, on sunny summer weekends, the road can get noisy from the motorbikes enjoying the bends in the valley.

Region
Germany - Schlüchttal
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
400m
Number of routes
80
Range of Routes
4 to 7b
Faces
South West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
10 Schermuus 4b 50m ***

3 pitches, some bolts, take friends and nuts.

11 Himmelbett 7a+ 18m ***

Starts as for Schermuus, but climbs direct over two roofs to the lower off at the end of the first pitch of Schermuus.

13 Romacker-Ged.-Weg 5b 50m ***

Two good pitches. The crux is moving out of the corner on the first pitch.

14 Faustkampf 6a+ 50m ***

Three pitches. An enjoyable first followed by a pumpy crack.

16 Silberblattverschneidung 6a 40m ***

Two pitches with a difficult slab move at the start. There is also a slightly more difficult right hand variation start to the first pitch.

21 Diplomatenweg 4b 50m **

Starts by the chain. This is also the way to reach the start of the routes at the left hand side of the upper wall

23 Dornröschen 6a 20m ***

A steep juggy wall

25 Beat Berreth Ged. Weg 7a 25m ***

Two pitches, each with their difficulties. Can be climbed in one long run out.

27 Andacht 7a 10m ***

A direct finish from the last belay of beat-Berreth

28 Phönix 7a+ 20m ***

Starts at the black streak left of Autobahn and climbs to join that route, before leaving it to finish with a hard move to the belay of Beat-Berreth

30 Autobahn 7a+ 30m ***

Technical edge climbing. The hardest moves can be avoided on the left or right

31 Discovery 6c 30m ***

The direct line between Autobahn and Super Direkte. Easier than those routes, but a tricky start.

32 Super Direkte 7a 30m ***

A long pitch with the crux in the middle

34 Gelbe Kante 6a+ 25m ***

The arete, following the yellow bolts

41 Licht und Schatten 5c 50m ***

Two pitches, the difficulties are in the second pitch

48 Ruta 40 5b 35m ***

Two pitches, starting just above the bench. Originally climbed without the bolts, and even with them it doesnt feel overprotected.

62 Sonnenpfeiler 4c **

Climbs the striking pillar on the right hand side of the upper crag

70 SECTOR

CHRÜZFELSENFLÜH. The lower section of Tannholzwand is often wet, but has some fine routes

74 Dunjazade 6c 15m ***

Up the middle of the slab, over the small overlap

84 Geist aus der Lampe 6a 15m ***

Steep slab climbing

86 Ali Baba und die 40 Räuber 7a 20m ***

Slab, then a crack through the roof

87 Schwuler Eunuch 7b 20m ***

Bouldery start then a technical corner

Crags in this region: