An impressive crag set in a pretty location.
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
LES REVES DE PHIL. The first sector just a few minutes from the car
|A01||Les filles du feu||6c+||
To the left of L'oeuf
|A02||L'oeuf de l'ame||6a||20m||
Just to the right of the tree growing out of the crag
|A03||Asinus pecorum fricat||4b||20m||
|A04||Pointe de fuite pour les bravs||4c||20m|
|A06||Le vent de l'emportera||6b+||20m|
|A07||La dérisoire effervescence||6b||20m|
|A08||La vie, la mort et tout le bazar||5c||20m|
|A09||Les voyages de Anne||7a||20m||**||
Strenuous moves over the first bulge and a boulder problem top roof
|A10||Le reve du Phil||7a+||20m||***|
|A11||A ton étoile||5c||20m|
|A12||Attitude en Altitude||6a+||15m||
The first route on the left wall of the gully.
|A13||Phil armonic vertical system||7a||15m||
The last route on the left hand side of the gully
|A14||Balance au soir||5c||15m||
A rising rightwards traverse on the right wall of the gully, starting high up in the gully. Nice.
|A15||Au bout du doigt||6c||15m||
Direct up the R wall, crossing and finishing to the left of "Balance au soir". Hard start, easier finish.
The right arete of the gully
|A17||Dans la joie jusqu'au cou||6c||
This and the next route are to the right of the gully
|A18||L'attention du laisser aller||6a+|
JULOX TO LA CABANE. Not far from Réve du Phil, this long sector has many overhanging routes. La Cabane is recognised by the cabin high up on the rock face at the right hand of the sector.
The overhanging crack
1) Start up Mini Mathilde and then make a long traverse right to a belay. 2) The second pitch is also 6b if you use the tree, 7a+ without!
Climbs direct half way along the first pitch of Abre génöalogique. Grade not confirmed
Traverses right half way up the second pitch of Arbre généalogique
|B26||Gigi bonhomme sourire||6c+||15m||
This and the next few routes are short and protected by the overhangs from the rain
|B27||Le psy à Boris||6c||15m|
|B28||Les accros d'EPO||6c+||15m|
|B29||Denis la matrice||7a||15m|
|B30||Le fils Ducrass||7c||20m||
A two pitch route that starts up Denis and moves right. Grade uncomfirmed.
Further right is a superb imposing corner (Mini-baston). The next 4 shorter routes are just to the left of the corner
A short beginners route. Has a 7c? extension, not for beginners.
The extension to the previous route. Grade not confirmed
Despite the poor write up in other guidebooks, this is perhaps THE route of the crag. The huge, overhanging, imposing corner is not as hard as it looks, has a superb crux to a big jug, and is definitely as scary as it looks. The bolting is safe, but spaced.
|B37||Systéme of Down||7b||25m||
The arete right of Mini-baston
Climbs through the black overhangs left of the cabin.
The yellow bolts right of the cabin
Yellow bolts just right again
LES RIPOUX. A fireplace, a bench and some overhangs. A nice sector
Yellow bolts right of the gully
|C05||Le sens de la vie||7c+||
Same lower off as the previous route
|C06||Conar le Barban||8a+||25m|
The line of bolts right of Conar, to finish at the lower off of Sida Mental. Probably 8b or harder
Climb the groove to the bulge and exit left with difficulty. The right hand finish is easier
|C10||Right hand finish||7a||25m||
As for Les ripoux but exit right at 6c
A rightward trending line between les ripoux and Hansprator. 8b?
short and bouldery with yellow bolts
The direct bouldery start to Hansprator
JOE BROWN. The sector with the longest routes on Vaferdeau
A technical bulge and slab towards the left hand side of the sector. name written at the bottom
Climb the groove with a tricky move round the bulge
|D10||En souvenir de Roi||6c||25m||**||
The buttress to the left of the first pitch of Joe Brown
The classic of the crag, named after the UK crack climbing legend from the 50s and 60s. Start just left of a 4m x1m oblong boulder, the route follows large ring bolts. 1) 6a, climb the crack, ignore the first lower off after 25m and move left and up to a belay. 30m. 2) 5c continue up the crack. 3) 5c continue up the crack 4) 5a continue up the crack! Descend by a well marked path on the right
translates as "yuck", but this short, steep, tricky pitch is better than that. Climbs direct to the the first belay of La Sensationelle, and can be combined with the second pitch