Vaferdeau

An impressive crag set in a pretty location.

Region
Switzerland - Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
650m
Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
4c - 8a
Faces
South

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A00 SECTOR A

LES REVES DE PHIL. The first sector just a few minutes from the car

A01 Les filles du feu 6c+

To the left of L'oeuf

A02 L'oeuf de l'ame 6a 20m

Just to the right of the tree growing out of the crag

A03 Asinus pecorum fricat 4b 20m

The corner

A04 Pointe de fuite pour les bravs 4c 20m
A05 Apeirophobie 5c+ 20m
A06 Le vent de l'emportera 6b+ 20m
A07 La dérisoire effervescence 6b 20m
A08 La vie, la mort et tout le bazar 5c 20m
A09 Les voyages de Anne 7a 20m **

Strenuous moves over the first bulge and a boulder problem top roof

A10 Le reve du Phil 7a+ 20m ***
A11 A ton étoile 5c 20m
A12 Attitude en Altitude 6a+ 15m

The first route on the left wall of the gully.

A13 Phil armonic vertical system 7a 15m

The last route on the left hand side of the gully

A14 Balance au soir 5c 15m

A rising rightwards traverse on the right wall of the gully, starting high up in the gully. Nice.

A15 Au bout du doigt 6c 15m

Direct up the R wall, crossing and finishing to the left of "Balance au soir". Hard start, easier finish.

A16 Fleurs d'yeux 6a+ 15m

The right arete of the gully

A17 Dans la joie jusqu'au cou 6c

This and the next route are to the right of the gully

A18 L'attention du laisser aller 6a+
B00 SECTOR B

JULOX TO LA CABANE. Not far from Réve du Phil, this long sector has many overhanging routes. La Cabane is recognised by the cabin high up on the rock face at the right hand of the sector.

B21 Mini Mathilde 7a

The overhanging crack

B22 Arbre généalogique 6b 35m

1) Start up Mini Mathilde and then make a long traverse right to a belay. 2) The second pitch is also 6b if you use the tree, 7a+ without! 

B23 Madame Angel 8a 30m

Climbs direct half way along the first pitch of Abre génöalogique. Grade not confirmed

B24 Brotherator 7b 35m

Traverses right half way up the second pitch of Arbre généalogique

B26 Gigi bonhomme sourire 6c+ 15m

This and the next few routes are short and protected by the overhangs from the rain

B27 Le psy à Boris 6c 15m
B28 Les accros d'EPO 6c+ 15m
B29 Denis la matrice 7a 15m
B30 Le fils Ducrass 7c 20m

A two pitch route that starts up Denis and moves right. Grade uncomfirmed.

B32 Unknown 6a 10m

Further right is a superb imposing corner (Mini-baston). The next 4 shorter routes are just to the left of the corner

B33 Unknown 6a+ 10m
B34 Unknown 6a+ 10m
B35 Unknown 5a 5m

A short beginners route. Has a 7c? extension, not for beginners.

B35e PMT 7c 10m

The extension to the previous route. Grade not confirmed

B36 Mini-baston 6c 35m

Despite the poor write up in other guidebooks, this is perhaps THE route of the crag. The huge, overhanging, imposing corner is not as hard as it looks, has a superb crux to a big jug, and is definitely as scary as it looks. The bolting is safe, but spaced.

B37 Systéme of Down 7b 25m

The arete right of Mini-baston

B38 Unknown 6c+ 25m

Climbs through the black overhangs left of the cabin.

B39 Unknown 6a 10m

The yellow bolts right of the cabin

B40 Unknown 5b 10m

Yellow bolts just right again

C00 SECTOR C

LES RIPOUX. A fireplace, a bench and some overhangs. A nice sector

C01 Bitman 6c+
C02 Rabin 7a+
C03 Mordillo 6b
C04 Saori 6b 15m

Yellow bolts right of the gully

C05 Le sens de la vie 7c+

Same lower off as the previous route

C06 Conar le Barban 8a+ 25m
C07 Project 25m

The line of bolts right of Conar, to finish at the lower off of Sida Mental. Probably 8b or harder

C08 Sida Mental 8a 25m
C09 Les Ripoux 7a 25m ***

Climb the groove to the bulge and exit left with difficulty. The right hand finish is easier

C10 Right hand finish 7a 25m

As for Les ripoux but exit right at 6c

C11 Project 25m

A rightward trending line between les ripoux and Hansprator. 8b?

C12 Hansprator 7a 10m

short and bouldery with yellow bolts

C13 Clint flip 7a+ 10m

The direct bouldery start to Hansprator

C14 Mécanique satanique 7c 25m
D00 SECTOR D

JOE BROWN. The sector with the longest routes on Vaferdeau

D01 Shiryu 6b+ 15m **

A technical bulge and slab towards the left hand side of the sector. name written at the bottom

D02 Yoga 6a+ 15m **

Climb the groove with a tricky move round the bulge

D10 En souvenir de Roi 6c 25m **

The buttress to the left of the first pitch of Joe Brown

D11 Joe Brown 6a 100m Gold

The classic of the crag, named after the UK crack climbing legend from the 50s and 60s. Start just left of a 4m x1m oblong boulder, the route follows large ring bolts. 1) 6a, climb the crack, ignore the first lower off after 25m and move left and up to a belay. 30m. 2) 5c continue up the crack. 3) 5c continue up the crack 4) 5a continue up the crack! Descend by a well marked path on the right

D18 Beurk 6b 10m

translates as "yuck", but this short, steep, tricky pitch is better than that. Climbs direct to the the first belay of La Sensationelle, and can be combined with the second pitch