Baume les Dames - Sous Buen

Sous Buen is a pleasant crag in a beautiful location overlooking the Doubs. It has single pitch routes in all grades from 3 to 8, up to 30m in length, many with the name written at the bottom. It is well bolted, has easy access,and as a result is very popular. Some of the older routes are polished, which can be a problem on hot days. There are however many newer routes still in good condition, and the crag gets the shade in the afternoon. There are not so many routes in the very hard grades, but the tough grading makes up for this! There is lots of interesting wildlife, in particular the kestrels that nest on the crag, plus many other interesting species of bird. Allegedly wall creepers, although these are not often seen.

France - Doubs
Rock Type
Number of routes

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick


b01 D-day 6b 25m
b02 Gaillard 6b+ 25m
b03 Bigdil 6c+ 25m

Same start as Gaillard, but goes direct

b04 la ballade des anciens 6c 20m
b05 fenetres sur Cour 6c 20m
b06 Plein Sud 6c+ 25m

4a to first lower off

b07 Iris 7a+ 25m

4b to first lower off

b08 Joséphine 4b 10m
b09 Verte et jaune 4c 10m
b10 Fleur de roc 6c 25m

5c to first lower off

b11 La lame 5c+ 25m
b12 Atchoum 5c+ 25m

5b to first lower off

b13 Simplet 4b 20m
b14 Joyeux 5c 20m
b15 Dormeur 4a 20m
b16 Timide 4b 15m
b17 prof. 5b 15m

same lower off as Timide

b18 Grincheux 5a 15m

LA LAME V. Opposite pilier des pirates

c01 Cote Atlantique 5b 20m
c02 La cascade 5b 20m
c03 l'ane Paulo 5b 20m
c04 Double face 5b 20m
c05 Humour et humus 5c 20m


d01 à l'abordage 6b+ 35m
d02 jésafa 6b 35m
d03 Pilier des pirates 6a+ 30m Gold

An excellent line going direct up the pillar. Polished but the holds are positive.

d04 La grapsotte 5c ***

A tricky move in the middle

d05 le flibustier 5c+ 35m
d06 Trafic sur le doubs 5c 35m
d07 Tour d'ivoire 5c+ 35m
d08 Tour de bras 6a 35m
d09 à bras raccourci 6c+ 35m
d10 La voix des celtes 5c+ 30m
d11 Tieno 5c+ 25m
d12 Sébus 6a 25m
d13 Yacacliké 5c 25m
d14 Adibou 5c 15m
d15 Clic 5c 15m


f01 Exodus 7a 20m

At the left hand side of the Escalator buttress. Climb over the first roof and traverse left before the second

f02 Ice cream 7c 20m

Goes direct where Exodus goes left

f03 Dry tooling 7c+ 20m
f04 Escalator 7b+ 20m
f05 Peturbation 7b+ 20m
f06 el diablo 7b 20m
f07 L'évadé des baumettes 7b+ 20m
f08 AC2N 7c 20m
f09 L'amour rend aveugle 7b 20m
f10 L'usine du plein air 7a 20m **

Swing left at the top of a strangely bolted corner, and make a difficult move on good holds over the lip


LES COPAINS D'ABORD The rock is not always solid, but some nice lines

i01 Remix 6c+ 20m **

Fingery wall climbing with a couple of bold clips

i02 Ca sonne ccreux 6b 20m

Goes direct up the arete where remix moves left

i03 les copains d'abord 6a 20m
i04 annamo 6c 20m **

Fingery pulls

i05 Balafre 5c+ 20m

same start as Béthanie

i06 Béthanie 2007 6b 20m

Moves right where Balafre goes direct

i07 etoile 6b **

Hard pulls round the roof, even harder for the short

i08 le yoyo 6b+ 20m

starts just to the right of étoile

i09 Chemin de traverse 6b+ 20m

starts on the RHS of les copains and traverses left


DÉBLOC Lots of fine short easier routes

J01 Moulti-pass 4c 20m
j02 L'entente franco-portugaise 4b 20m
j03 Memory of a rolling stone 4a 20m
j04 Big job 4b 20m
j05 Jusqu'à l'os 4a 20m
j06 ephémère 4c 20m
j07 Chantons sous la pluie 4b 20m
j08 Reve de fille 5b 20m
j09 monsieur Propre 6b 20m **

Climb up to the layback flake, and avoid climbing this with a tricky move right to the arete

j10 Débloc 5c 20m
j11 Castabloc 6a 20m **

balancy climbing to the groove, climb into this with difficulty

j12 Petite enfance 5c 20m
j13 c'est pas gagné 5c+ 20m
j14 Classeu dans le style 5c 20m
j15 Tu ris hobbit 6a 20m
j16 Période d'opposition 6b 20m
j17 C'est pas 6a 5c+ 20m
j18 et c'est reparti 5c+ 20m **

A hard boulder problem start, then more pleasant

j19 Fausse éthique 7a+ 20m *




l01 Titanic 5b 25m
l02 la varappe, l'argent, ma haine, mon temps 7a 25m ***

technical first wall followed by pumpy overhangs

l02a unknown 25m

wall between varappe and vol

l03 vol au dessous d'un nid de culs nus 5c+ 25m ***

boulder problem start then pleasant climbing

l04 Les dièdres à Dédé 6b+ 25m
l05 Pour les beaux yeux de Sylvie 6b+ 25m
l06 Grève de narines 6a+ 25m **
l07 Gare a la martre 5c+ 25m
l08 La surprise de l'ecureuil 6c+ 25m
l09 Terre a l'eau 5b 25m
l10 Expérience 1ére 6a 25m
l10 Rancho de Cuba 5c 25m
l12 Les rameurs 6b+ 25m
l13 Fi sur la fissure 6a+ 25m
l14 Tordagerie 6c 25m
l15 Chochoye 6a+ 25m
l16 Piccolissima 6b 25m
l17 Spigolo 7a 25m


m01 Scenario 7b 25m

The overhanging arete with a difficult exit

m02 Court métrage 6a+ 25m

Start up the corner and move out left

m03 Image 6a+ 25m

Same start as the previous route but continue direct up the corner

m04 Infortune 6c 25m

Starts just to the right of image

m05 Arc de lune 6c+ 30m

The line of weakness left of friction, starting in the same place

m06 Friction 7a+ 30m **

The centre of the clean wall. Sustained

m07 Du vent dans les cordes 6a+ ***

The excellent corner with a technical start

m08 Border line 7b 30m

The line of bolts between "du vent" and "dancing wall"

m09 Dancing wall 6b+ 30m

The line of flakes left of the large corner of "du vent"

m10 Dancing wall right hand finish 6c 30m

Moves right at the top of Dancing wall

m11 Avec vue sur le doubs 7a+ 30m ***

Climbs to the tufa and then moves left, followed by technical moves up the blank wall and sustained but easier climbing to a finish on big holds

m12 reptile 7c 30m

As for the previous route but move right at the tufa

m13 No limit 7b 30m
m14 Dioxine 7b+ 30m
m15 Le grande patétras 7b 30m