Hexenküche
A lovely outcrop deep in a beautiful wood. Hexenküche has many excellent routes up to 7b-ish, easy access and as such is a popular venue. The routes go up to 25m in length, and the climbing is on both sides of the outcrop.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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00 | SECTOR | NORTH |
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01 | Hexenschuss | 5b | No bolts! Take care |
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02 | Kaffeetante | 4b | The pocketed wall just to the right |
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03 | Grosskotzig und schön | 5c | ||||
04 | Kurzer Sauber | 6a | The crux is before the bolt |
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05 | Sauberer Ausstieg | 4c | Trad gear |
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06 | Linker KKW | 4b | Start as for the previous route, traverse right at the 3rd bolt and finish as for the next route |
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07 | Rechter KKW | 4b | Pleasant route |
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08 | Winkelgasse | 6a | The corner |
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09 | Hilfpoltsteiner Weg | 5c | Just right of the arete. Polished. The direct/RH start is 6a |
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11 | Gabriels grosszügiges Geschenk | 6b+ | The excellent wall |
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12 | Kleine Hexen müssen hexen | 7a | A classic route with a hard sequence over the roof and onto the face |
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14 | Direkter Sanduhrweg | 5b | Start in the cave, pull over the LHS and continue direct to the top. Classic |
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16 | Solohex | 6b | The right hand side of the Sanduhrweg wall. |
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18 | Exzess in Morgenrot | 6b | The left hand side of the wall right of the Sanduhrweg wall. The difficulties are low down |
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19 | Geölter Blitz | 5b | The crack/wall right of Exzess im Morgenrot |
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25 | Ulrikenpfeiler | 6a | The left hand (sparsely) bolted line on the main face. |
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27 | Testamentvollstreckung | 6c | The bolted line right of Ulrikenpfeiler. Crux in the bottom half, runout at the top |
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28 | Shining (Totengräber) | 6c+ | Right of Testamentvollstreckung. Small holds lower down, better higher up |
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29 | Stalagdrama | 6b | Right of Shining. Runner useful before the first bolt. |
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30 | Zittern verboten | 6b | Right again, and shares the same lower off. Run out and slippy |
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31 | Pipifax | 5a | Starts left of the large boulder at the right hand side of the main wall and climb direct |
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32 | Ostwand | 5a | Start as for Pipifax but climb rightwards into the groove/corner |
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33 | Ostverschneidung | 5b | The long corner at the right hand side of the main wall |
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34 | Alter Hexentanz | 5a | Start as for Ostverschneidung but move onto the right wall at the first bolt |
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35 | Dübelpremiere | 6a | Climbs the wall right of Ostverschneidung, traversing under the bulge then up. Run out to the first bolt |
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36 | Direkter Dübel | 7a+ | Direct to the first bolt on Dübelpremiere, then finish up that route |
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37 | Liesel Maurer Gedanken Weg | 7a | The wall right of Dübeldirekt |
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38 | Hexentanz | 7a | The wall right again. A surprise finish |
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39 | Feenwald | 5b | The next route right, left of the arete |
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40 | Nordkante | 4b | Starts to the right of Feewald and finishes at the same lower off |