A lovely outcrop deep in a beautiful wood. Hexenküche has many excellent routes up to 7b-ish, easy access and as such is a popular venue. The routes go up to 25m in length, and the climbing is on both sides of the outcrop.

Germany - Frankenjura
Rock Type
Range of Routes
4 to 7b, most routes in the 6s
It is deep in the wood so usually in the shade
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick


01 Hexenschuss 5b

No bolts! Take care

02 Kaffeetante 4b

The pocketed wall just to the right

03 Grosskotzig und schön 5c
04 Kurzer Sauber 6a

The crux is before the bolt

05 Sauberer Ausstieg 4c

Trad gear

06 Linker KKW 4b

Start as for the previous route, traverse right at the 3rd bolt and finish as for the next route

07 Rechter KKW 4b

Pleasant route

08 Winkelgasse 6a

The corner

09 Hilfpoltsteiner Weg 5c

Just right of the arete. Polished. The direct/RH start is 6a

11 Gabriels grosszügiges Geschenk 6b+

The excellent wall

12 Kleine Hexen müssen hexen 7a

A classic route with a hard sequence over the roof and onto the face

14 Direkter Sanduhrweg 5b

Start in the cave, pull over the LHS and continue direct to the top. Classic

16 Solohex 6b

The right hand side of the Sanduhrweg wall. 

18 Exzess in Morgenrot 6b

The left hand side of the wall right of the Sanduhrweg wall. The difficulties are low down

19 Geölter Blitz 5b

The crack/wall right of Exzess im Morgenrot

25 Ulrikenpfeiler 6a

The left hand (sparsely) bolted line on the main face. 

27 Testamentvollstreckung 6c

The bolted line right of Ulrikenpfeiler. Crux in the bottom half, runout at the top

28 Shining (Totengräber) 6c+

Right of Testamentvollstreckung. Small holds lower down, better higher up

29 Stalagdrama 6b

Right of Shining. Runner useful before the first bolt.

30 Zittern verboten 6b

Right again, and shares the same lower off. Run out and slippy

31 Pipifax 5a

Starts left of the large boulder at the right hand side of the main wall and climb direct

32 Ostwand 5a

Start as for Pipifax but climb rightwards into the groove/corner

33 Ostverschneidung 5b

The long corner at the right hand side of the main wall

34 Alter Hexentanz 5a

Start as for Ostverschneidung but move onto the right wall at the first bolt

35 Dübelpremiere 6a

Climbs the wall right of Ostverschneidung, traversing under the bulge then up. Run out to the first bolt

36 Direkter Dübel 7a+

Direct to the first bolt on Dübelpremiere, then finish up that route

37 Liesel Maurer Gedanken Weg 7a

The wall right of Dübeldirekt

38 Hexentanz 7a

The wall right again. A surprise finish

39 Feenwald 5b

The next route right, left of the arete

40 Nordkante 4b

Starts to the right of Feewald and finishes at the same lower off