Schmocken

A small, scenic and interesting winter crag. The cliimbing is on a vertical wall with well bolted routes that are often tough for their grade. Up to 25 metres in length.

Region
Switzerland - Bernese Oberland
Rock Type
Sandstone
Altitude
800m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Faces
South
Sun
From about 10am to sunset in winter
Directions

From Interkaken drive to Beatenberg and continue through the village to pay parking in front of the Altersheim (bus stop). This is a few hundred metres before the cable car. Walk down the road to the right (west) of the Altersheim (Birchistrasse) for a hundred metres or so where a bike piste meets the road and a small track leads left into the wood. Follow this down and round to the crag. There is a fixed rope just before the crag. 10 minutes from the parking.

Climbing topo Schmocken, Beatenberg

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Kodiak 6c

The first route after the fixed rope
02 Chrüslimüsli 6b+

The same start as Kodiak, move right at half height
03 Neptun 6b+
04 Schattenflucht 6b+
05 Muhbar 6c
06 Chörnlipicker 7b+
07 Tuff Tuff 7b
08 Silvester 7c
09 Gloggenspiel 7a
10 Näbelmeer 7b+
11 Inferno 7b
12 Grümscheli 7c+
13 Sup Sup 7a
14 Yukon 7a
15 Am Jöggeli sis Glöggeli 7b
16 Dornröslischlaf 7b
17 Gassi gaa 7a+
18 Schatzruckli 7b

hard moves through the bulge then sustained right to the end
19 Wanderdüne 6b+

The corner
20 Kamelbuckel 7a+

Start as for Wanderdüne and move right and up to a difficult mantel
21 Xixu 6c+
22 Stüper 6a+
23 Raupe 8a
24 Imegä 7a+
25 Schämiegga 7b+

Start as for Imegä and move right
26 Chaäfer 7b+
27 Indra 6b+

Technical climbing up the groove / corner
28 Sienne 6b+

Start as for Sienne and move right to a hard final move
29 Horus 6c

A hard move at the start past the niche
30 Hermes 7b

The technical groove
31 Tranzzendenz 7b
32 Hopi 7b+
33 Viktors Programm 6b

Pleasant and low in the grade
34 Tunnel 5c

Crags in this region: