Italy

Crag

A very special needle, and a very special location. Aguglia Goloritze rises 200m above the emerald green Mediterranean sea. It has a handful of routes that all finish on the tiny pointed summit, with beautiful views of the coastline and its fascinating rock formations. The cliff is solid, perhaps getting a little polished, particularly on the popular routes, but nevertheless a summit that should be on most people's tick list.

Number of routes
20
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

The impressive 400m cliff south of Punta Giradili and east of the small town of Baunei is one of the best big walls in Sardinia, if not the whole of Italy. A cross between Verdon Gorge and the Calanques.

All the routes are fully bolted although sometimes not too closely, so a few backup wires and cams might be useful. Bring two 60m ropes.

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
7a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
After about 11am
Crag

Technical wall climbing requiring strong fingers

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
5c - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

Excellent, often difficult climbing on steep slabs and walls. L'Isola de Tesoro is set in a beautiful location with magnificent views over the surrounding countryside. It faces west and gets the sun in the afternoon. Bolting is usually very good.

Number of routes
60
Range of Routes
5c - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

Steep climbing on small holds

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the morning
Climbing Area

Sardinia is a beautiful island, with a climate and diet that lends itself to having one of the longest life expectancies, and the biggest proportion of centenarians in the world. It has a bit of everything. it is mountainous, rising straight out of the sea to its highest point at  Punta La Marmora  at 1,834 m. Couple this with nearly 1800 km of coastline, much of it beautiful beaches, it is easy to see how the island is something of a paradise.

Number of routes
2000
Crag

Situated just above the town of Ulassai, the canyon is a great summer destination with excellent climbing in all grades. It gets the shade in the afternoon and coupled with the altitude remains cool. Spring and autumn are also suitable for climbing.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8a, with most interest in the 7s
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
until midday on the left, in the afternoon on the right
Crag

Actually a continuation of the main Ulassai canyon, more easily reached from the sports field north of the town. The cave is a small gorge that gives steep, strenuous climbing on tufas and edges. Can be damp and cold outside the summer months.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6b - 7c+
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
always in the shade
Crag

A real roadside crag, you can almost belay from the car in this impressive little gorge. The gorge is actually a set of cliffs and a fin of rock, the road winds its way through this and from the top a footpath connects you to the cave at su Marmuri close to Ulassai. Legend has it that the gorge was created by St George, the bishop of Suelli, who wanted to reach Osini, but was blocked by the rocks, and so ordered them to open up. Whatever, the climbing here is short, steep, technical and fingery, and best suited to the warmer months, it can get cold in the winter.

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
6a - 7a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

The steep walls of Lecorci offer lots of good, hard climbing that requires strong fingers and good technique. It is very quickly reached and gets the sun in the morning.

Number of routes
70
Range of Routes
Mostly 7a - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the morning
Crag

A huge crag just round the corner from Ulassai. The routes are of excellent quality, and set in a beautiful location. Although it is 100m high, at present it has been bolted for single pitch routes, many of which require an 80m rope. ALWAYS TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE. Note that because the crag is relatively new, not all the grades have "settled down" yet, treat with caution.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon, perfect for cold days with sunshine
Crag

The big obvious crag behind the grassy Barigau Piazza in Ulassai. Torre dei Venti offers steep wall climbing on small holds.

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
6b - 8b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the morning