Frantoio

A nice quiet crag up in the hills with a lovely approach through a near deserted village. The cliff has a nice selection of quality routes on compact rock. It is south facing so best in the cooler months. Route names are written at the bottom of the crag. 

Region
Italy - Liguria
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
700m
Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Faces
South
Sun
All day

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Pendolino 7a+ 20m
02 Onatra 7c+ 20m
03 Freski 7c+ 20m
04 Vergine 7b+ 25m
05 Extra Vergine 7b 25m

To the right of Vergine

06 Cortona 6c+ 20m

Starts to the right of Extra Vergine and finishes to the left of it

07 Leopold 8a 25m

Climbs the wall then up through the roof

08 Gombo 7c 25m

Takes the left hand line through the roof

09 Giara 7b 25m

Same start as Gombo, but takes the right hand line through the roof

10 Marchesin 7b+ 25m

Climbs through the roof to the same lower off as 11,000 Ulivi

11 11,000 Ulivi 7c 25m

Climbs the wall left of the overhanging corner of Garello Super Star to the lower off of Marchesin

12 Garello Super Star 7b 25m

The impressive overhanging corner moving slightly right at the roof

13 Taggiasca 7b 30m
14 Gallone 7a+ 30m
15 Marasca 7a 15m

Technical

16 Quarta 6b 15m

The obvious layback flake to the small roof

17 Teciallo 6c+ 15m
18 Chitarra 6a+ 15m

Crags in this region: