List of scrambles
Country | Region | Title | Description | Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|---|
France | France - Bauges | Roc des Boeufs - Traversée des arêtes | The Hogs Back or la Traversée des arêtes des Roc des Boeuf is a long ridge climb on excellent rock with superb views of the Bauges, lake Annecy and Mont Blanc. Although described here as a scramble there is one short, hard, bolt protected section (5c/6a or A0) as well as numerous grade III sections. The route goes up the East side to the steepest part of the ridge, and then follows the ridge for several hundred metres to the highest point before descending the West side. Take a 50m rope, slings, screwgates, a couple of friends and a few quickdraws. |
IV - technical climbing |
France | France - Ecrins | Roche Paillon | In the right conditions the ascent of Roche Paillon from the Refuge des Ecrins is a beautiful grade 2 snow and ice climb. However, in recent years during the summer the gully leading to the summit loses it's snow, making it an unprotected scramble up tottering shale. Likewise the continuation along the arete leading to Roche Emile Pic is a super tour given the right conditions, but technically tricky and dirty later in the year. Best to go in late spring or early summer. |
III - long steep sections. Use of technical equipment necessary |
France | France - Ecrins | La Meije - Arête du promontoire & traversée des arêtes | The ascent of the Grand Pic of La Meije (3982m) by the arete du Promontoire and descent via the traversée des aretes is one of the classic alpine tours. it is long, committing and very exposed; although the climbing is never excessively hard, experience and an all round alpine competence is necessary. Being at nearly 4000m, it is wise to do some acclimatisation before attempting it. The logistics of where to start and finish the tour are not simple, which ever way you go up, there is no easy way down from the Grand Pic, and so deciding on the starting and finishing points is not easy. Although it is possible to reach the Arete du Promontoire by a 5h walk from La Berade in the south, the route that is described here starts and finishes in La Gare in the North. It is probably the most practical. Note: In August 2018 a huge rock fall fell in the corner of the Glacier Carré making the normal route up the Promontoire unsafe for the rest of the season. Check with the hut for the latest information. |
IV - technical climbing |
France | France - Ecrins | Pointe des Cinéastes | A classic alpine ridge climb from the réfuge du Glacier Blanc, with tremendous views of the Ecrins. The route traverses 5 of the 6 summits along the ridge (it misses out the first southern summit) and then descends the east side, The rock is generally good, the route is exposed and the climbing always enjoyable. It is not too long and can be done in a half day from the hut. |
IV - technical climbing |
France | France - Mont Blanc | Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arete | The traverse of the Forbes arete to reach the summit of the Aiguille du Chardonnet is one of the classic climbs of the Alps. Never really difficult technically, it is nevertheless long, sustained and exposed. Full alpine equipment is necessary. |
IV - technical climbing |
France | France - Vosges | Arete des Spitzkopf | The arete des Spitzopf is a long, enjoyable and exposed ridge on excellent granite in the heart of the Vosges. The views are magnificent. Although never very difficult, most people will be glad of a rope. However, only a minimum of gear is necessary, making this, in good weather, an excellent lightweight scramble. Take a rope betweeen 30m and 50m , a few long slings, and a couple of large nuts or friends, there are no bolts. It is also a worthwhile winter climb, when conditions allow. |
III - long steep sections. Use of technical equipment necessary |
Spain | Spain - Costa Blanca | The Bernia Ridge | A long, strenuous and in parts technical ridge walk with beautiful views above the Costa Blanca coastline and to Puig Campana. For the full traverse, a 50m rope for the abseils is required. Take also a small set of wires, a few quickdraws and slings, and depending on your ability to lead 4+ in trainers/walking boots, some rock climbing shoes might be handy. |
III - long steep sections. Use of technical equipment necessary |
Spain | Spain - Majorca | Cavall Bernat ridge | Imagine a beach surrounded by mountains and lapped by the warm mediterranean sea. The only foot approach to this beach is a walk of 3km through a dry valley strewn with boulders the size of houses. Goats meander through the tough macqui, and rare birds rest on the rocks as they migrate between Europe and Africa. This is the Boquer valley. Out of season it is one of those special places that you want to visit time and time again. In season unfortunately it can be the target of many holiday makers looking for something a bit more adventurous than the usual day out lying on the beach. Whether in or out of season, the Cavall Bernat ridge is a way to take that little adventure just a bit further and make sure you lose any crowds. Guarding the north side of the valley it drops vertically 300 metres into the sea for a couple of kilometres. |
II - steeper sections may need a rope |
Switzerland | Switzerland - Basler Jura | Burg Gorge | The Biederthal / Burg gorge is a small, hidden gem on the border between France and Switzerland. The river Birsig has it's source in Switzerland near to the village of Burg, best known for its Schloss perched on the top of a large fin of rock. The stream cascades down a pretty little gorge in a series of small waterfalls between steep but short limestone walls. The climb up this gorge is an interesting and pictureque scramble from the bottom in France to the top in Switzerland. |
II - steeper sections may need a rope |
Switzerland | Switzerland - Central | Rigi Hochflue | Rigi Hochflue is the most alpine of the 3 Rigi summits , the only one without a cable car to the top. The summit is pyramid shaped and protected on all sides by cliffs. All the routes to the summit are exposed, but not difficult and offer beautiful views over Vierwaldstättersee. |
I - easy scrambling |
Switzerland | Switzerland - Graubunden | Piz Bernina | Situated above Pontresina, the Biancograt is a classic ridge climb leading to the summit of Piz Bernina. |
IV - technical climbing |