The Bernia Ridge
A long, strenuous and in parts technical ridge walk with beautiful views above the Costa Blanca coastline and to Puig Campana. For the full traverse, a 50m rope for the abseils is required. Take also a small set of wires, a few quickdraws and slings, and depending on your ability to lead 4+ in trainers/walking boots, some rock climbing shoes might be handy.
From the town of Benissa follow the N332 road towards Calpe, and turn right after 1km towards Jalon (Xalo) along the C750. Turn immediately left onto the CV749 and follow this road for 7 to 8km to its summit next to a restaurant. Park here by the Casas de Bernia. Alternatively the same point can be reached from Jalon by following the signs to Bernia, also about 8km of narrow winding road.
From the parking follow the track that leads beyond the restaurant until you reach the Font de Bernia (c20 minutes). Go up the steps that lead to a footpath which traverses below the ridge heading to the East col (yellow/white stripes, red dots) to an obvious cave through the ridge. Look through this for interest but continue scrambling up on the left hand side of the cave (red dots) on the north side of the ridge to the col at the east end of the ridge.
The east summit can be reached from here by a short scramble (grade 2).
From the east col scramble and walk along the ridge until a short abseil (or grade 2 exposed descent) and traverse is reached (in situ bolts). After more easy scrambling you will reach two prominent pinnacles. After this there is another abseil onto the south side of the ridge. Scramble up a diagonal break and then continue on the south side of the ridge until it is possible to scramble up a 15m wall (grade 3). Continue to the central summit. Descend from here (walking and easy scrambling for some distance, some cairns) until a col and three large fins of rock are reached . Follow the ridge side of the right hand fin until a line of bolts leads upwards onto the ridge. One pitch. F4+ (25m, well bolted up the wall then hand traverse to a belay). This is followed by 20m of unbolted grade 2 scrambling (some loose rock) to reach the crest of the ridge. Follow the ridge weaving on either side.following the easiest line for some distance and continue to a broad col from where you can see the west Bernia summit. Continue from here to the main Bernia summit passing 3 false summits on the way.
The easiest descent is to follow the red dots and cairns to reach the main tourist path (marked with yellow and white stripes) and back to the Bernia restaurant (40 minutes).
Drive back down to Jalon and enjoy a well deserved beer.
Map of scrambles and alpine climbs
Photos (click for full view)
