Aiguille du Chardonnet - Forbes Arete

The traverse of the Forbes arete to reach the summit of the Aiguille du Chardonnet is one of the classic climbs of the Alps. Never really difficult technically, it is nevertheless long, sustained and exposed. Full alpine equipment is necessary.

Region

France - Mont Blanc

Difficulty

IV - technical climbing

Quality

Gold

Length

From the Cabane du Trient the approach is about 5km across the glacier. The climb up to La Bosse is 400m or so. The ridge itself climbs from 3703m to 3824m and is 600 to 700m long

Time required

From the Trient hut to the foot of Aiguille Forbes takes about 1h 30 minutes. Allow 1h 30mins to reach the ridge, and rhen up to 5 hours for the traverse, 3 hours for the descent back to the hut. An early start (3am) is recommended.

Accommodation

Overnight accomodation and starting point is in either the Cabane du Trient or the Albert Premier hut

Aiguille du Chardonnet, traverse of Forbes arete

Directions to start

From the Cabane du Trient, cross the glacier to reach the Col du Tour. Pass through this and continue along the glacier to reach the foot of the Aiguilles Forbes.

Route Description

Climb steeply (45° to 55°) up a NW facing runnel to reach La Bosse. The last part to La Bosse is the steepest. Continue more easily to gain the ridge between two pinnacles at 3700m. Now traverse the ridge, avoiding difficulties on the north side. The ridge is a true mixed climb. At the summit enjoy fantastic views across to the Aiguille Verte, Les Droites and Les Courtes. Descent is down the west ridge by several abseils, usually keeping to the right until the Tour Glacier is reached.