Peillon - Baus Roux

A pleasant crag a few kilometres North of La Turbie. The crag has many gouttes and incut holds, and although polished there are lots of excellent mid grade routes. It gets the sun until mid afternoon, so an ideal sunny winter venue, or for the evenings in the warmer months.  The routes are well bolted and their names are often written on small pebbles at the bottom.

Region
France - Alpes Maritimes
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
550m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5b to 8a+
Faces
South East
Guidebook
L'escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes by by J.C. Raibaud ed Alticoop
Peillon escalade topo
Directions

From the centre of La Turbie follow the road northwards for 5.5 km to just before a large U turn in the road. Turn left and after a few hundred metres park in the car park on the right. A good footpath goes dowhill from here, and after 10 minutes it crosses the river. Shortly afterwards a cairn marks the path up to the crag. About 20 minutes from the car.

escalade peillon baus roux topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Le guepier 5c 15m

At the left hand side of the crag
02 La grande muraille 6a+ 20m
03 Diou lou faguet 6a+ 25m
04 Pro cre ation 6a 25m **

Technical wall
05 Merguez party 5c 25m ***

Pleasant climb on large holds
06 Les p'tits charognards 6a 30m
07 Voyage eclair 6c+

3 pitch route 6b;6a;6c+
08 M comme puce 6b+ 30m ***

Excellent committing climbing
09 Besoin de toi 5c 22m
10 Scorde 5c 25m
11 Passage a la acte 6a 20m
12 Vengo 6a+ 22m
13 Mon amie la rose 6a+ 30m
14 Corbaco baskets 6a 20m
15 Birdy 6a+ 30m

Just to the left of where the approach path meets the crag
16 Pipistrelle 5b 15m
17 Le renard et la belette 6a+ 22m
18 Pitte fourmigue 5c 15m
19 Sbark 6a+ 15m
20 Danse entre les clous 6a 15m
21 Monsieur Bulot 6a+ 20m
22 Une sourie verte 5b 20m ***

Nice climbing up the large left facing corner

23 Apolitique 6a 20m
24 Cul sec 6b+ 20m
25 Wasa 6a 25m
26 Le paille en queue 7a 30m
27 La porte du Nirvana 6c+ 35m
28 Confiture de bouse 6c 35m ***
29 Dante edo igo 6c 35m
30 SECTOR

UPPER TIER - LE BOMBE
31 Le cheche 6a+
32 Bush rit 6c
33 Octo boules 7b

Bloc
34 Pulpe fiction 6c+
35 Joyeux drill 7b
36 Octobre rouge 7b
37 Poppa chubby 8a+
38 Nirvana 7a 32m
39 Scorpio 7b+
40 Le ptit mulot 7b+
41 Ptite puce 7a+
42 Skating Joe 7a+

Crags in this region: