Leonidio St. Nicholas

Located just above the monastery of St. Nicholas, are some very impressive cliffs, that reach a height of over 100m. The climbs on the (true) right bank, are long and difficult, and sometimes require a backup rack of trad gear. Those on the (true) left bank are shorter, mostly single pitch. It is often a lot cooler here than in the valley itself, and shade or sunshine can be found according to the time of day. The right bank is in the shade until about 2pm, and the left bank after 3pm. The monastery is worth a visit in its own right. It dates back to the 17th century, is impressively built into the huge rock faces and is today a nunnery. It has magnificent views down to Leonidio and of the surrounding cliffs.

Region
Greece - Leonidio
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
30
Faces
All
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

(TRUE) LEFT BANK

00a Mpiskota 6b+ 15m

Actually on the (true) right bank, just up from Toda. The steep short arete.

01 Hanni - Bunny 7a+ 25m
02 Tado 6a+ 25m ***
03 Mono-Ton 6c+ 25m **

Aptly named

04 Leonardo in Leonidio 7a 12m ***
05 Goats up 6b+ 30m ***
06 Windjammer 8a+ 15m

accessed from the right up a short rope

07 Wheelie 7a 20m
08 Broom 6a 20m

The left hand variant is 6a, the right 5c.

09 Witch 5b 25m
09e Witch extension 6c+ 40m
10 Kleines Geschenk 5b 25m
10e Grosses Geschenk 7b 40m

The extension to "Kleines"

11 St. Nikolaus 6a+ 25m **
20 SECTOR

(TRUE) RIGHT BANK.
Note: The routes are not fully bolted and some require trad gear

21 Kopsi tou Stavrou 7c 50m ***
22 Monks in the Gym 7c 80m ***

1) 7b 25m 2) 7c 40m 3) 7b 15m. Abseil descent

23 Taraxippus 6b+ 60m ***
24 Kifinas 6b 50m ***

The big impressive corner. 1) 5c 25m 2) 6b 25m

25 Je m'en fous 6c 40m ***
26 Sphingofeleas 7b 90m ***

A big long route. 1) 7b 50m. 2) 7a+ 40m. Trad gear also required

27 Leptospirosis 7c 40m ***
28 Archgoat 7a 35m ***
29 Apo Michanis Theos 7a
30 Kaour Ekokiate 7b 35m ***
31 Krampus 8a 35m ***
32 Folling Stones 35m ***