Diamanstock Ostgrat

A long day out, and a big route despite the bolts on the harder sections. Very popular, which can lead to queues. Some slings, friends and wires necessary as well as crampons to descend the (35 deg. steep) glacier. Starts at the foot of the arete at the end of the east ridge. Climb the ridge (4c,4b). Now traveres the ridge (III) with a short 5m abseil (or V downclimb) until it is possible to reach a "bail out" abseil point below the final ridge. Climb this (4b,4b,4b - some bolts) until it is possible to traverse the south face (III) to climb (III) to just below the summit. Traverse around the arete to reach the summit. Descend the north west side of the ridge (cairns) until it reaches the East face and descend this with two grade III sections to reach the glacier. Descend this to pick up the path that leads back to the hut.