Grüne Hölle

A small crag with several excellent sustained routes, both in the easier and the harder grades. The climbing is on pockets and is overhanging on the east facing lower side, and vertical on the upper side. Routes are up to 20m long

Region
Germany - Frankenjura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
4b to 9a+
Faces
All
Sun
Deep in the forest, the sun is not usually a problem
Climbing Area
Frankenjura
Directions

Drive through the village of Sorg in the direction of Geschwand and park after about 500m where are track leads into the forest on the right. Follow this track  for 200m until the path turns right and descends. Follow this for 300m past a small crag on the left with 3 routes on it and turn sharp left. The crag is 100m uphill on the left.

Grüne Hölle, Frankenjura climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Isolation 6c+

Excellent overhanging climbing that gets easier the higher you get
03 Sultan of Swing 7a+
04 Solid Rock 6c+

Starts as for Sultan of Swing, then moves R at the band
05 Schwerter zu Bohrhaken 6c

The right hand side of the first face
06 Range Rover 6b

Climbs out of the steep cave on big jugs. Classic
07 Pretty Girl 7c+

Same start as Nice Boys, move left at the 2nd bolt to avoid the hard move on that route
08 Nice Boys 8b
09 Bastard 8a+
10 Spiderman 8a+

A long reach at the 2nd bolt
11 Kawaschuhu 8c+

Connects from the 2nd bolt of Spiderman to the 4th bolt of The Man that Follows Hell. Steep and sustained. Maybe 9a.
12 The Man that Follows Hell 9a
13 Vögeln verboten 7c+

Another steep classic
14 Vögelmaschine 6a

Take the start to the previous route and continuous traversing to finish at the top of the next route

 
15 Penblwydd Hapus 7c

Hard boulder start then straight up
16 Freispiel 6c+

Starts right of Penblwydd and moves left to join that route at the sling
17 Rote Flüh 6c+

Same start as Freispiel, but move right and up at the bolt to a hard finish
18 Im 4. Monat 6c

the last route on the lower crag has a hard start
19 Zweispalt 4c

The first route on the upper walls is very pleasant
20 Kümmel Getümmel 5a

Just right, shorter and a bit harder
21 Das Weiss der Geier 4c

The last of the three routes on the first wall on the upper tier
22 Dr. J 6a

The left hand route on the 2nd upper tier wall
23 Die fette Elke 6b

Tricky
24 Trollkante 6a+

The third route on the 2nd wall.
25 Heinz Schenk 7a

The left hand side of the 3rd wall is another classic
26 Südwand 6a

Start as for Heinz Schenk, move right at the first bolt
27 Ebbelwoi Express 6b

A good route up the middle of the 3rd wall
28 Blauer Block 6a+

Just right of Ebbelwoi Express
29 Schobbepetzer 5a

Starts up Blauer Block and moves right at the second bolt to finish just after the third bolt of Otto Normalweg
30 Otto Normalweg 5b

The last route on this wall has spaced bolting

Boulder problems

Topo Ref. Title Boulder grade Length Quality Description Tick
02 Talkshow 7A

Traverses the block L to R starting under Isolation

Crags in this region: