Sueur d'hommes

8a is a magic grade, something to aspire to, a target that most climbers never reach, but that many would love to climb. By it's nature 8a climbing is hard. Very hard, and usually on tiny holds that require years of training to be able to pull on them. Even then success will only come if you have the right technique, drive and stamina. Sueur d'homme at Galatiani is a bit different, unique even. Yes for sure you will need enormous amounts of stamina to climb a 45 metre route that overhangs 10m. Yes, you will need technique to know how to recover on the many knee bars, and yes you will need some nerve, so that you are not afraid to fall deep into space as you push on to the next spaced bolt. Sueur d'hommes has something that other 8as does not have. BIG HOLDS! With the exception of the crux, all the holds are hand sized, the crux has only two holds that could be described as small, and these are incut. For mortals with limited finger strength, it is a route that brings the magic grade within grasp.

The route is over 40m of climbing, an 80m rope is needed to reach the ground. The crag gets the sun after about 12.30 and climbing in the sun makes it a lot harder, so an early start is recommended. Note that the grip is also better on windy days. There are 15 quick draws required, although always best to take a few more. If you fall, it is good to carry a prussik and karabiner to help "bounce" your way back up the rope to continue and practice the moves, it is much easier to pull on a crab and prussik than a thin, taught rope. Stripping the route is tiresome, some in situ crabs are in place to help with it. It is worth clipping in and pulling the rope through at the mid way lower off. The route takes about 20 minutes to climb, so long, no rest sessions on the most overhanging parts of your local climbing wall will put you in good stead.

If you want to on-sight the route, look away now, otherwise, here is the beta on one of the best climbs on Kalymnos. Click on any of the photos to see more detail.

Feuerdorn and Sueur d'hommes, beta information

Feuerdorn

The first half of the route is "only" 7a+, although for sheer effort, if not technical difficulty, many would give it 7b. It starts up a gently overhanging wall with some technical moves to reach the first tufa, an elegant column that is pinched and knee jammed. To reach the tufa some good holds, a two finger pocket an undercut and a right hand layway are used.

You need to concentrate on the first part, but it is when the tufa is reached that the fun really starts. Depending how confident you are in your knee bars, clipping the 5th bolt feels insecure and you are well above the 4th bolt. The less brave might want an extension on a pre placed quick draw here. The good news, after you have reached the top of the tufa, there is a no hands rest.

Clipping bolt 6 can be done from undercuts if you are tall enough, or by confidently moving up to place first a left, then a right knee bar between the tufas. Did I tell you to bring knee pads?

Now brace yourself for the crux of the 7a+, an off balance swing for big holds. The swing can be made easier with a right foot jam in the previous tufa, afterwards there is an uncomfortable recovery position on the large tufa. This is not really needed on the 7a+, but is important to save as much strength as possible for the crux of the 8a, which comes immediately after the next bolt and the lower off of Feuerdorn.

Sueur d'hommes

From just below the lower off of Feuerdorn, reach up for a good right hand layaway. Place your right foot high, then lurch up and left for a good finger hold. A heel hook helps to keep balance to match with your right hand, after which a strenuous scrabble left for large holds and to clip bolt 10.