Betzensteiner Sportkletterwand

A nice place, easily accessible and close to Betzenstein swimming pool. Lots of mid grade routes up to 12m in length. It is north facing and stays cool in summer.

Germany - Frankenjura
Rock Type
Number of routes
Range of Routes
4 - 7a+
Always in the shade
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Nikotinspirale 4c

At the very left hand side of the crag is a crack/corner. Follow this, not well bolted

02 Nimue 5c

The wall just right

04 Kneifzange 6a+

Right again, steep climbing over the bulge

06 Baselisk 6b+

Steep climbing over the bulge onto the right hand arete

07 Hexenmeister 6a+

Steeply over the bulge

08 Hexentanzplatz 5b

Spaced bolts

11 Jenny's Apfelkönig 5a

The wall right of the corner, nice

12 XXXX 6a+

The overhanging arete has good holds

13 Bauer Gedanken Weg 5c

Start as for XXXX and move right to the crack. Nuts useful

14 Ma petite chère 6b
15 Abstauber 6a+

Same start as the previous route, difficulties low down

16 Sphinx 6a+

Same lower off as Abstauber

17 Protagonist 5a

Same lower off as Abstauber

18 Cleopatra 4c

Take some slings

19 Antagonist 5c
20 Fingerriss 6a

The tricky crack

21 Chalking Heads 7a
22 Schallmauer 7c
23 Anarchodach 7a+

A good, tricky climb

24 Teststrecke 7a+

Another good route

25 Gravitation 6c

A hard first few moves, then run out

27 Trauma 6c

One hard move

27 Swingtime 6c
28 Swingtime rechts 6c

Solo to the same finish as Swingtime

29 Rokokowand 4a

Sometimes dirty

30 Pyramide 4c
31 Bandscheibenvorfall 4b
32 Plattenbau 4c
33 Maria Forever 4c

The left hand arete of the Bellissima wall

34 Marytissima 5b

Crux at the top

35 Direttissima 4b

The middle of the wall. Excellent

36 Bellissima 4b

Just right of Direttissima. 

37 Blond is beautiful 6a

Easier at the top

38 Cosmos direkt 5c

The right arete

Crags in this region: