A small crag very near the road that has some excellent routes up to 15m long. Unfortunately the "classics" are very polished

Germany - Frankenjura
Rock Type
Number of routes
Range of Routes
5a - 8b, mostly 7a/7b
North facing
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick

LEFT. The first crag that is reached has a route on the LHS and some harder routes on the RHS

01 Rudl Buchner Gedanken Weg 6b

The very left hand side, a bit loose in parts

02 Timefroze 7a

At the right hand side of the first crag, up the dark rock

03 Timefroze extension 7b+

The extension to the previous route

04 Molotow part 1 6c

The lead in to the next route can be dirty

05 Molotow 8b

An extension to the previous route up the overhanging wall.


RIGHT. The right hand cliff is one minute further along the path

06 Fliegender Engländer 7a

The first route on the 2nd crag goes up the left hand side of the white wall. Difficult crimpy moves.

07 Die Entdeckung der Langsamkeit 7b

Starts just to the right and finishes at the same lower off as Fliegender Engländer

08 Eraserhead 7b

Start as for Die Entdeckung move right at the first bolt and continue straight up the wall

09 Ist doch logisch 7a

Start at the right hand side of the first wall and continue straight up to a run out finish

10 Rainer Hannig Gedanken Weg 6b

As for the previous route but move right at the 3rd bolt

11 K.K.R.S Verschneidung 5a

The next corner to the right. Trad gear needed

12 Coburger Schinderkamin 4a

The chimney

13 Kampf der Proletariats 5a

The left hand side of the slab left of the main wall. 

14 Nürnberger Hangelriss 5a

The right hand side of the slab starting up the wide corner. The first bolt is very high, and probably no one carries friends large enough to protect the first section

15 Offenbarung 7a

A classic route up the middle of the white wall and then round the roof. Excellent steep, sustained, technical, and varied climbing. Oh and very polished

16 Not for Stamp Collectors 7b+

Long reach

17 Am seiden Faden 7a+

The third of the routes on this lovely wall. Tricky throughout

18 Angenehm überrascht 7a

Up the middle of the next wall

19 Zeit der Leidenschaft 7a+

The last route on the cliff