Joe Brown

The highest sector of Vaferdeau. Has the classic multi pitch routes Joe Brown and La Sensationelle as well as many excellent one pitch sport routes.

Range of routes
5a-8a
Sun
In the afternoon
Vaferdeau climbing topo
Crag
Vaferdeau
Previous Sector
Les Ripoux

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
D01 Shiryu 6b+ 15m ** A technical bulge and slab towards the left hand side of the sector. name written at the bottom
D02 Yoga 6a+ 15m ** Climb the groove with a tricky move round the bulge
D03 Pilier de parachute 6c+ 20m

A few metres to the right of Yoga up the white wall
D03e Pilier du parachute extension 7b+ 40m
D04 Torticolis 5c 15m

The obvious left facing corner. Not recommended
D05 Toxicity 7c 15m

The wall right of Torticolis
D06 Andromède 6b
D07 Boréliose 7b 20m
D08 Les gars de la narine 7a 20m
D09 Stoned Airlines 7b+ 20m
D10 En souvenir de Roi 6c 25m ** The buttress to the left of the first pitch of Joe Brown
D11 Joe Brown 6a 100m Gold The classic of the crag, named after the UK crack climbing legend from the 50s and 60s. Start just left of a 4m x1m oblong boulder, the route follows large ring bolts. 1) 6a, climb the crack, ignore the first lower off after 25m and move left and up to a belay. 30m. 2) 5c continue up the crack. 3) 5c continue up the crack 4) 5a continue up the crack! Descend by a well marked path on the right
D12 Pizza 6c 25m

A technical and fingery pitch just to the right of Joe Brown. The short extension is 7a.
D13 Errare humanum ouest 7c+ 15m
D14 Errare humanum est 7a 15m
D15 Sagoin 6c 20m

The extension is 7a
D16 Wagoon 6b+ 30m
D17 Tete a noce 7c 30m
D18 Gazon 6c 25m

A sustained and tricky pitch with a holdless corner higher up that often has grass in it
D19 Vendez votre ames aux niacs 8a 35m
D20 Saint éthique 7b+ 35m

The right hand variant to the 8a, excellent climbing
D21 La mort fine 7b 35m

Using the right hand line of bolts on the upper crack makes the route 6c+
D22 Peau session 7b 25m
D23 La Sensationnelle 6b+ 70m

The second big route in this sector has a magnificent last pitch. Worth taking some wires and friends. 

Starts up the chimney then moves right to descend to the first belay. Next move up and right round the corner and follow the corner and cracks via two belays to the top. Descend on foot as per Joe Brown 5a; 6a; 6b+; 6a

 
D24 Beurk 6b 10m

translates as "yuck", but this short, steep, tricky pitch is better than that. Climbs direct to the the first belay of La Sensationelle, and can be combined with the second pitch of La Sensationnelle
D25 Cacabijou 6c+ 30m

Start as for Beurk, move right round the corner and then cross back left to finish at the 2nd belay of La Sensationnelle