Ladye Bay

A pleasant bouldering crag in Clevedon. There are a couple of good buttresses, many isolated problems, and even some trad and bolted routes. The attraction however is the bouldering. The good parts are on clean, solid sandstone, with some pumpy traverses. Excellent training. The crag is accessible until about one hour either side of high tide. If the sun is shining it can be pleasanly warm in the middle of winter. Well worth a visit if you are in the area.

Region
England - South West
Rock Type
Sandstone
Altitude
0m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
4 - 7c
Faces
North West
Directions

Ladye Bay is about a kilometre east of the antiquarian Clevedon Pier. Follow the coast road and turn down Bay road. After a few hundred metres park above the bay and follow the path that leads to the beach. The North face is immediately on your left as you enter the beach (looking out to sea), Pier view buttress with its excellent traverses is accesible by going straight on and climbing about 50 metres over boulders. All boulders are a few minutes from the car.

Clevedon Ladye Bay bouldering
Clevedon Ladye Bay bouldering

Boulder problems

Topo Ref. Title Boulder grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR PIER VIEW BUTTRESS

The excellent wall about 5m high that faces Clevedon Pier
03 A stroll along the pier 4 5m

There are various pleasant ways up the easy slabs at the left hand side of the buttress
06 Pier 6B 10m ***

The longest and easiest way to traverse Pier View buttress. Start with a sit start at the left of the corner where the buttress turns from being slabby to overhanging. Traverse right to the corner and continue until it is possible to hang the last very low large hold on the buttress
07 Peer to Peer 6B+ 20m ***

The same as Pier, but climb there and back without a rest
10 Peer Pressure 7A 5m ***

The test piece of the crag. Start sitting at the lowest point left of the corner. Climb direct via a 2 finger pocket. Gets progressively easier, but still testing if the problem is started at the higher holds
11 Peer Review 5+ 5m ***

Start sitting as for Pier, make one move right and continue direct to the top on good holds
12 Piers Morgan 5+ 5m **

Start just right of the corner, climb into it and exit almost immediately left to reach good holds and the top
13 The corner 5+ 5m 0

Climb the corner direct. Dodgy holds
15 Clevedon Beer 4+ 5m **

Climb direct up the first set of large holds after the corner
16 Noname 4+ 5m **

The 2nd set of large holds up the buttress
17 Noname 4+ 5m **
20 Mantelshelf 5+ 2m **

A mantelshelf problem just right of Pier View Butrress
21 SECTOR NORTH FACE

The first buttress on the left (facing the sea) as you walk onto the beach
25 Lighthouse 6A ***

A lovely short problem from a good finger hold to a pinch/undercut hold. Jump off

Crags in this region: