Orgon
The climbing at Orgon is in a surprisingly beautiful location given its proximity to the Autoroute du Soleil. It has a small lake and a cirque of beautiful crags that has excellent pocketed and well bolted wall and slab climbing. Most of the 250+ routes are in the V to 6c range, with the Canalissime sector having routes up to 9a. There is a campsite next to the lake. Climbing is possible all year round, although most people will find the summer months too hot. Autumn, Winter and Spring are ideal.
For the Western crags, sectors A to D it is possible to park near to the Beauregard church. Follow signs to "Site d'escalade" in Orgon. Otherwise for sectors E to P follow signs to the Gare SNCF (railway station), and then to the Camping Vallée Heureuse situated next to the small lake. Park here. The approach on foot depends on the sector and generally takes less than 15 minutes.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| A | SECTOR | PILIER SUD. Two 2 pitch routes up to 65m long. The lefthand route is 6a+, the right hand 5c. The rock is not always perfect |
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| A01 | Initiative | 6a | 65m | Two pitches (5b, 6a) |
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| A02 | Pilier Sud | 5c | 65m | The right hand line is two pitches (5b, 5c) and shares the same first belay as the left hand line |
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| B | SECTOR | LES GROTTES. Steep routes between 6c and 7b in and around the caves |
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| B10 | Avertissement de conduite | 6c | 35m | The left hand side of the large cave gives a steep, sustained and strenuous route that is climbed on big holds |
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| B14 | Sur la fleuve amour | 7b | 20m | The right hand side of the large cave |
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| C | SECTOR | MUR DU SIX ET MUR DU QUATRE. A long line of slabs stretching from the brèche right of the caves to Mur Notre-Dame. The routes on the left are mostly grade V, in the midddle up to a maximum of 6b, on the right grade IV. |
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| C10 | La porte tragique | 5b | 15m | |
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| C14 | Douce France | 6a+ | 20m | Below the highest point of this sector is an overlap. This route climbs through the middle of it. |
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| C16 | L'empire du soleil | 6a+ | 20m | |
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| C22 | Seance nocturne | 6a+ | 20m | |
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| C23 | Chic Planete | 6a+ | 20m | |
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| C28 | Carrefour aux oies | 5c+ | 20m | |
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| D | SECTOR | MUR NOTRE-DAME. Just 2 minutes from the Beauregard parking, the routes on the left are V to 6a, on the right 6b to 7b+ |
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| E | SECTOR | BABYLONE. The left hand of the easten crags is reached up the obvious track from the campsite. 6a to 7b+ |
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| F | SECTOR | PAPY. To the right of Babylone. 5c to 6a+ |
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| G | SECTOR | ACTEUR'S STUDIO. To the right of Papy. Routes from 5c to 6b on the left and 3 to 5 on the right |
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| H | SECTOR | SENTINEL. A large pillar of rock with a few good 35m routes from 6a to 6b. Reached from the path that goes around the campsite. |
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| I | SECTOR | PILIER NORD. Reached either from Acteur's Studio or Pointe de la Decouverte, the main face has routes from 6b to 7a+, the left hand side has a leslection of easier routes between 4 and 6c. |
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| J | SECTOR | PETIT CIRQUE. Go round the back of Babylone past Pointe de la Découverte and Pointe Sikamole to the small ampitheatre. Routes from IV to 6b+. Faces both south east and south west |
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| K | SECTOR | POINTE SIKAMOLE. Go round the back of Babylone past Pointe de la Découverte. Slabby routes from IV to 6b. Faces east. |
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| L | SECTOR | POINTE DE LA DECOUVERTE. Reached around the back of Babylone. Slabby routes from IV to 6a+. Faces east |
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| M | SECTOR | LE GRAND CIRQUE. 70m at it's highest point, Le grand Cirque has excellent slabby routes from 5b to 7a+ |
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| N | SECTOR | SECTEUR DU HAUT. Mostly excellent two pitch slabby routes from 6a to 6b+ |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
