Val Maggia - Prato

An excellent crag of high quality granite with a bit of something for everyone. Prato is set in a beautiful location, and has some excellent routes. Well worth a visit. It gets the sun in the afternoon

Region
Switzerland - Tessin
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
700m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
3 - 8
Faces
West
Sun
In the afternoon
Directions

Drive from Locarno up the Magglia valley through Cevio and past Brontallo to the village of Prato-Sornico. The crag is clearly visible high up on the right as you approach the village. There is plenty of parking just after the bridge leading to the village. Walk through the village and follow a track for about 10 minutes to a small water source and a track leading steeply up to the left, marked by cairns. Follow this strenuously for a further 20 minutes.

climbing topo Val Maggia Prato

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

LEFT HAND
01 Torre Grande 6c+ 20m

At the left hand side of the crag
02 Alternativo dynamico 7a+ 20m

The left hand variant to Autocontrollo, finishing at the same lower off
03 Autocontrollo 6b+ 20m
04 Dimensionsloch 6c+ 20m
05 In fila indiana 6b+ 20m
06 Giro rotondo 7a+ 20m

The lefthand variant to Tocco a te, finishing at the same lower off
07 Tocco a te 6b+ 20m
08 La bella e la bestia 7b 20m
09 La fessura parziale 6b+ 20m

Finishes at the same lower off as La bella e la bestia
11 No exit 6c 25m

Finishes at the same lower off as Borni
12 Tom 6c 30m
13 Jerry 6c+ 30m

Same start as Tom, but moves right up the crack
14 Delikatessen 6c 30m
15 Pirelli 6a+ 30m
16 La Bussola 6a+ 30m

The obvious corner and final overhang
17 Spicoliamo 6b 25m
18 Tirra la Tacca 6c+ 25m
19 Nierona 6b+ 25m

The crack 
20 Il corvo 7a+ 25m

The tricky overhang and groove
21 Vedo Nero 6b+ 25m

An excellent wall climb on good holds
22 C è spazio 6c 25m
23 Somea 6a+ 30m

Classic jamming and laybacking to the ledge. Excellent
24 Spirito libero 7c 25m
24a SECTOR

UPPER TIER
25 Elefantanz 8a 20m
26 Luce irrazionale 8b 20m
27 Hum Came 8a+ 20m
28 Charriu 8a 15m
29 Timo der Helder 8a+ 15m
30 Spring bock 7b 15m
31 Bulldog 6b+ 10m
32 Esperanza 5c 10m
33 Moloch 5a 10m
35 Oppresione 8b 20m
36 Semi finale 7c 15m
37 Forza diagonale 8b 25m
38 Al riparo dal sole 8a+ 35m
39 Namasthè 8c 35m

Connects the top of Forza diagonale to Al riparo dal sole
40 Festa dei nervi 7c+ 35m
41 Vista lago 7c 30m
42 Spallata bestiale 7c+ 35m
43 Kàpten Blaubar 7c 15m
44 Zamonien 6c+ 30m
45 Via Aurelia 7a+ 35m

A superb route up the corner ramp
46 Solo per Quello 7a 20m

A lovely climb with a hard boulder move in the middle. Given 7a, probably harder
48 In bilancia 7b 30m
49 Anubis 7c 25m
50 Chocoly 7b 20m
52 Sasso Volante 7a
60 SECTOR

LOWER TIER
61 Tang Gram 3
62 Carambole 3
63 Jenga 3
64 Master mind 4a
65 Memory 4c
66 Yatzi 5b
67 Mono 6a
68 Poly 5c
69 Via Jacqueline 4c
70 Carlito 6a+
71 Crema 6b+
72 Yoghurt 5a
73 Schluck Tee 4c
74 Chicco doro 5b
75 Mix max 3
76 Uno 5c
77 Hali Gali 5c+
78 Mikado 5b
79 Domino 5c

Trad Climbs

Topo Reference Title Trad UK E Grade Trad UK tech grade Length Quality Description Tick
10 Borni E6 6b 25m

Trad climb

Crags in this region: