Engelhörner Simelistock and Vorderspitze

At the left hand side of the cirque of cliffs surrounding the Ochsel valley are three impressive peaks. Klein Simeler, gross Simeler and Vorderspitze are connected by a long ridge climb and several modern classics taking direct lines to the summits. All of the hard routes are well protected with bolts, some backup wires and friends useful.

Region
Switzerland - Bernese Oberland
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
2482m
Number of routes
12
Faces
South West
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Überschreitung Klein und Gross Simeler 4b Gold

From the hut, walk 10 minutes up Ochsetal and traverse left under the Klettergarten, following the path until a grassy hollow is reached. Follow the arete to the summit of klein Simeler, abseil descent and follow the ridge around the side of gross Simeler and climb up to the summit. Descend by 3 abseils down the north side to Simelstocksattel, then a further two abseils before traversing down the slope to the top of the leftmost chimney (looking out), abseil descent back to Ochseltal.

02 Schneewitchen 6a 210m

The left hand route on the Klettergarten, (1) 6a+ 35m (2) 5a 25m (3) 15m (4) 5c+ 45m (5) 6a 30m (6) 6a 35m (7) 5b 25m. Abseil descent

03 Lustgarten 6b 250m

Starts 20m to the left of Schmunzel Runzel. 1) 6a; 2) 6a+; 3) 5c; 4) 5c; 5) 6b; 6) 6a+; 7) 6b; 8) 5c; 9) 6b. Abseil descent

04 Schmunzel Runzel 6c 400m ***

Start 20m left of the white streaks. Well bolted. 1) 5c+ 2) 5c+ 3) 6b 4) 6a+ 5) 5a traverse right at the end. 6) 6b 7) 6b. the slab on pockets. A tough pitch. 8) 6b 9) 5a. traverse right on big holds to a niche 10) 6c. The technical and steep corner. Abseil descent possible from here. 11) 3a. Climb up and right then back left via a cable. 12) 5c 13) 6a+ 14) 6b+ 15) 5c. climb to the pre summit, then 40m scramble to the main summit. Descend by abseil to the steep grassy bank and walk down following cairns to the top of the 5th pitch of Gagelfänger and 3 more abseils.

05 Gagelfänger 6b 400m **

Start to the right of the white streaks.Well bolted. 1) 4b 2) 5c 3) 5a 4) 6a 5) 3c or walk round to tthe foot of the slabs. 6) 5a 7) 5c 8) 6b 9) 6a, traverse right at the end 10) 5c+ 11) 5c+ 12) move right up the steep grassy bank. 13) 6a 14) 5c. Up the final wall to the summit of klein Simeler. Abseil down the route to the steep grassy bank and follow the cairns to the top of pitch 5. 3 more abseils.

06 Silberfinger 6c 250m Gold

A classic, reached by going up the Ochsetal, scrambling up the 3rd from the left chimney and traversing the grass and scree to the foot of the impressive wall below gross Simelistock. The route starts just to the left of a corner (marked). Well bolted, take some friends and wires. 1) 6a 2) 5c 3) 5a 4) 6b. Start up the corner and then traverse right and up to reach a belay in the middle of the wall 5) 6b. continue up the wall to join the überschreitung. 6) traverse the slabs to reach the foot of the East wall. 7) 6b+. Climb steeply up the wall to a belay half way up. A tough pitch. 8) 5b. Descend by 3 abseils off the back of gross Simelstock, and a further two abseils to reach the grass / scree slope and an abseil back down the chimney.

07 Silbermagic 7b+ 150m ***

Start to the right of Silberfinger (marked). 1) 6a+. Join the first belay of Silberfinger. 2) 6b. Move up and right to join Kombination and belay just below a small overhang. 3) 7a. Continue direct. A step down just before the belay. 4) 7b+. Climb up to finish on the überschreitung. Descent by 4 abseils from the top of Silberfinger.

08 Kombination 6b 270m **

A long route wending its way to the top of gross Simelistock. Start to the right of Sibermagic. Marked. 1) 5c+ 2) 6b continue direct where Kadenz goes right. 3) 5b traverse along the break 4) 6a. Keep following the break. 5) 6b. Even further along the fault line. 6) 6a+ Climb direct to the traverse line of the überschreitung. 7) 6a+. Move right to a bolt and then upwards. 8) 6a+ Finish just below the summit. Descent by abseil off the back.

09 Decubitus 7b 220m *

Start as for Kombination. 1) 5c+ 2) 5c. move up and right. 3) 7a. Climb to the traverse line of Kombination. 4) 7b. 5) 6a+. 6) 7b.

10 Agonie 7b+ 230m ***

Start 30m to the right of Kombination. Marked. 1) 4b. 2) 6c. 3) 7b+. 4) 7a. To the belay of Kombination 5) 7b. 6) 6b. FInish on the überschreitung.