Schlüchttal is a small valley of strange, but good rock, in the Uhlingen-Birkendorf municipality of South West Germany near to Waldsut.
It is a nature protected area, and as a result climbing is restricted on some cliffs during the breeding season (currently affects Falkenstein and Vesperklotz 1 February to 31 July). The plus side of this is that there are a lot of interesting animals, birds and wild flowers to see. Including Gämsen (Chamois), wall creepers, kites, buzzards as well as the usual badgers, foxes, wild boar and numerous song birds. Beware of ticks though, particularly after rain.
Climbing is possible all year round, although December to February needs good weather, and climbing in the sun will be problematic in the summer.
Routes are generally well protected with bolts, on the crux moves at least, although many routes require some nuts and friends for the easier sections.
The valley can be noisy in the middle of summer from the countless motorbikes that use it for weekend outings.
In this area:
Falkenstein is geologically interesting, with the large cliff split into three distinct sections. The lower tier has a few routes, but are mostly of value as the access to the other two. The middle tier has some excellent short routes, and a couple of longer ones, although these can be dirty if there has not been much traffic. The routes on the right hand side of the middle tier finish on an exposed ridge, and it is a pleasant excursion to it's summit on the E side. The upper cliff also has some nice shorter routes, and excellent views of the valley.
An excellent sport climbing crag with about 40 routes up to 40m in length. Grades between 5a and 8b. The rock is clean and solid, the crag faces south, gets hot in the summer but is pleasant in the winter. Some routes stay dry in the rain. Routes are mostly well bolted, although can be run out, especially on the easier sections.
Tannholzwand is a wonderful wall, one of the main attractions of Schlüchttal, with routes that go up to 60m in length. In particular the upper wall is superb, although to get there often involves a couple of slightly dirty pitches. These are not bad, can remain wet after prolonged rain, and in many ways add to the alpine nature of the place. There are now so many bolted routes on the walls that route finding can be difficult, not knowing which line of bolts to follow and where the variations go. The plus side to this is that the upper pitches at least are well protected.