Schlüchttal Schwedenfels

An excellent sport climbing crag with about 40 routes up to 40m in length. Grades between 5a and 8b. The rock is clean and solid, the crag faces south, gets hot in the summer but is pleasant in the winter. Some routes stay dry in the rain. Routes are mostly well bolted, although can be run out, especially on the easier sections.

Region
Germany - Schlüchttal
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
300m
Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5a to 8b
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR 37m

SCHWEDENFELS OBERE WAND

01 Graf Dracula 6b+ 20m

The first route on the left hand side of the upper wall. Climb steeply to the same lower off as Fledermausweg, with difficulty at the end.

02 Fledermausweg 6a **
03 Inkarnation 7a ***

Tricky overhang

04 Einsiedlerweg 5c **

two pitch route

05 Ausflug ins Nirwana 7b ***

steep

06 Thor's Hammer 7a+ ***

Crux at the end

07 Querweg 5b

An alpine sort of route

08 Roter Milan Direkt 6a+ *

Another alpine route

09 Rechter Einsteig 6a+ *

variant start to Roter Milan

10 Roter Milan 6b+ 40m ***

Excellent two pitch route with a tricky sequence on the first pitch past 3 old bolts (6b+) and an exposed but well bolted second pitch (6a). 80m rope needed to descend in one rappel. Tie a knot.

11 Chupa la Chapa 6c+ *

Variation 2nd pitch to La Paz. Easier to dyno the move

13 Axelle 7a+ 20m **

Sustained direct start to 1st pitch of La Paz

14 La Paz 6a+ 40m **

Long two pitch route. Excellent after the first part. 1) 6a+, Traverse right and then back left to climb the steep wall to the belay 2) 6a+ Trend left and climb directly up the wall above. Abseil descent. A 70m rope will only just touch the higher ground with the stretch.

15 Quatropunktus 4b

two pitch trad route

16 Drachenrücken 10m **

short pitch to the right of La Paz

20 SECTOR

SCHWEDENFELS MITTLERE WAND

21 Hintere Direkte 6a+
22 Krambambuli 7a **

Tricky move at the first overhang

23 Kalahari 7b **

Variation finish to Krambambuli

23b Happy Frog 6c **

Just to the right of Krambambuli. Nice climbing to a tricky move to tbe lower off

23c Flying Frog 7c

an extension to Happy Frog

24 Minimum mit Gummi drum 7c *

not quite as nice as the rest, and a terrible single move at the end

24b Maximum im Bruch darum 6c+

The line of bolts between Minimum and King Level. Hard at the second bolt.

25 King Level 6c ***

Excellent varied climbing. A technical small overhang and a powerful big overhang

26 Tanz auf den Buchstaben 7b+ ***

large font, small holds, followed by a wall and roof

27 Schattenspiele 7b+ ***

Excellent wall climbing. Tricky to clip.

28 Die Schrift 6c+ ***

6c+; After the first overhang a smooth corner and wall. 6a The second pitch is tricky and run out.

29 Goliath 7c+ ***

A classic. 7a; 7c+

30 Hopp oder Flopp 8b **

A mega variation finish to Goliath

31 Andromeda 6b **

A thought provoking route to the lower off below the roof

31e Andromeda extension 7b+ 35m

Continues with a powerful pull over the roof

32 Einstürzende Neubauten 7a ***

Easy climbing to finish straight over the roof

33 Via Classica 7c **

Easy to start, hard to finish 4c; 7c

34 Sachsenweg 4c ***

A classic climbed after the 2nd world war 4b;4c

34a Traumtänzer 7b+ **

meaty fingery climbing from the 1st lower off on Sachsenweg. If you can, you should

34z SECTOR

SCHWEDENFELS UNTERE WAND

35 Sachsenweg direct 5b **

Easier after the start

36 Alter Schwede 6b+ **

Worthwhile climbing, with the crux at the 2nd bolt

37 Ursus horribilis 6b 25m **

Two tricky sections on the traverse left

38 Direkter Schrei 7a 25m ***

Another classic. After a boulder problem start, continue direct. The crux section can be avoided by moving left to reach a large hold and then back right (long reach). This reduces the grade slightly (Schrei nach Stein - 6c+)

39 Naiaberau 7a ***

Popular technical and powerful classic

40 Eiszeit 6c+ ***

A long, exposed and demanding classic

41 Mondscheinkante 7b ***

A run out and powerful classic with two hard sections in the lower half

42 Mondfinsternis 7c ***

At the 3rd bolt of Mondscheinkante move right to reach the lower off of Schwedenverschneidung

43 Schwedenverschneidung 5c+ **

The first route about 15 seconds from the car. Start over the slabs then follow the, at times, run out corner

99 Grande Traverse 7b+ 130m **

A six pitch R to L traverse of the crag
1) Climb Mondscheinkante 2) Traverse to the belay of Sachsenweg 3) Belay of Die Schrift 4) Belay of Quatropunktus 5) Downclimb to belay of Roter Milan or up to La Paz 6) Finish up either of the two previous routes