Simplon Dorf

A small but very worthwhile crag close to Simplon Dorf. It is an excellent summer venue being located at 1500m, and in the shade in the afternoon. The climbing is steep, on holds that vary from large jugs to small crimps. Good endurance helps. Bolting is excellent, the approach is short.

Region
Switzerland - Wallis
Rock Type
Gneiss
Altitude
1480m
Number of routes
50
Faces
East
Sun
Gets the sun until about midday

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Znasspassgi 6c
02 Elvis 6c+
03 El Cuerpo 6c
04 Casa Mocellini 7a
05 UR's Knall 7a
06 Volli Schitti 7a
07 Waterworld 7a+
08 Kanalratta 7a
09 Töifstei 7a+ 25m

Start as for Wiiwassergschirrli and follow the left hand line of bolts

10 Wiiwassergschirrli 7a 25m

A hard start leads to larger holds on the left and an awkwardly placed 3rd bolt. Continue straight up. Excellent sustained climbing. Low in the grade, perhaps you should climb direct to the 3rd bolt

11 Via Hammerschlag 6c+
12 Multi traction 7a+
13 P&G 8a
14 Base Jump 7c
15 Heldenepos 7b
16 Thesi 7b

Same start as Heldenepos, then moves right

17 Anatexis 7b
18 Zanshin 7b+
19 Mikrokosmos 7c
20 Ferdinand Purrligääger 7c
21 Huxley's letzte 7b+

Climbs through the roof left of André am Bolzen 

22 André am Bolzen 7a+ 30m

Sustained and technical climbing up the rib

23 Tabü 6c+
24 Viper 6c 20m

Up through the steep black overhang

25 Hip hop on theTop 7a 30m

Another steep route, slightly right of Viper, with a hard move in the middle to reach a two finger pocket

26 Suicide Cobain 7a+
27 Zebra ad Infinitum 6c+ 35m
28 Stradineri 6b 25m

A lovely line up the steep black wall

29 Hippiehasser 7a 25m

Steep and technical climbing with a tough crux move

30 Cheeseballs 7a 25m

Climbs to the same lower off as Hippiehasser

31 Paris-Verzi 6c 20m

Crux low down

32 Löffeli Poffeli Ding 7b+
33 Kräja 6c
34 Salamander 6b
35 Villariba 6b 20m
36 Villabajo 6a+ 20m
37 Sigoga 6a 20m
38 Dimi 5c 15m
39 Zobo 5b
40 Kägi 5b
41 Sumo 5c
42 Croger 30 6a+

The first route on the main part of the crag, after you cross the river