Tafraoute North - Icebox Canyon
Icebox canyon is one of the premier cliffs in the area. Long pitches, atmospheric routes, and beautiful views deep into the Samazar valley combine to give the canyon a big mountain feel. This is a place to exercise your craft in traditional climbing, not learn it. The routes are mostly well protected, although sometimes run out, especially on the upper, easier pitches. As the name suggests, the canyon gets no sun, and is excellent for hot days, but also still climbable on cooler days, unless a wind is blowing up the gorge.
|Topo Reference||Title||Trad UK E Grade||Trad UK tech grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
Start 30m left of Polar Bear and climb a flake and corner to the roof and then direct to the tree on the ledge (45m 5a); Move up left then back right through a bulge to an arete and finish up grooves (30m 5b)
Takes the white streak between Alto Blanco and Polar Bear to reach the ledge right of the tree. Scramble up the gully to finish
Start left of North East Passage underneath an orange niche. Climb round to the left of the niche then up and right to follow a series of spikes to the halfway belay ledge (60m 5b). Continue up the black wall and then move right to follow a faint groove to the top (45m 5a).
|07||North East Passage||E4||6a||100m||***||
A stunning line up the black and orange overhanging groove. Climb the groove to a crack on the left and move right to belay in the right hand groove (30m 6a). Climb the right trending groove and bulge to belay on the ledge (30m 5c). Now climb the wall up and leftwards (40m 5b).
Start 10m left of North East Passage in the middle of the black wall below a white shield. Climb up to a rightwards trending flake and follow this to traverse right to the crack line . Follow the crack to the belay ledge (55m. 5c). The second pitch climbs the black wall until it is possible to traverse right to a groove that leads to the top (45m 5b).
|09||Electric Kool Aid Acid Test||E2||5b||100m||
Bold climbing left of the black streak of Arctic Char. Start below a crack and climb a groove and flake to a ledge (30m 5a); Climb a steep crack for 10m, then a corner, traverse left below the roof and climb to the ledge (20m 5b). Finish up the easy groove (4a)
Start at a boulder step, climb to the hollow flake and then step right to follow a vague crack to a ledge (35m 5b); continue up to join "Electric Kool . . " and follow this to the top (60m 5a).