A pleasant crag with some excellent, well bolted routes in beautiful surroundings. The Etang de Hanau offers swimming and camping in the summer months

France - Vosges
Rock Type
Number of routes
Range of Routes
5a - 7c
There is always somewhere in the sun or shade
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick

Les maines noires. On the south east side, a nice selection of good routes

A02 Le sale air de la peur 6b 15m

A hard sandy start leads to nicer climbing 

A03 Bon grés, malgré 6a+ 15m
A04 Korrigan 6c 15m

A hard move round the bulge, and then still sustained to the lower off

A05 Les trois curés 6a+ 15m

Climb out of the corner onto the wall. Careful with rope drag over the arete

A06 Les maines noires 7a+ 15m

Over the roof with difficulty and leftwards up the wall. A good route.

A07 Aurore et dame natione 7b+ 15m

Over the roof and rightwards up the wall

A08 Verouillage 7a+ 20m

Up the crack and over the roof

A09 Papy valant 5b 10m

The left hand side of the flying buttress to the roof

A10 Croqueuer d'oreille 25m

The extension to papy valant

A11 Pierrot la tune 5c 10m

The middle of the flying buttress to the roof

A12 Le retour du jet d'ail 6b 25m

The extension to Pierrot joins La minime just before the lower off

A13 Chateauteau du sable 5c+ 10m

Starts at the right hand side and climbs to the top of the Flying buttress. A nice bulge on good holds

A14 La minime 6a 20m

The extension to Chateauteau, climbing over the roof

A15 Tolerance 7a 20m

Just to the right of the flying buttress

A16 Tous les clous sont dans la nature 6b+ 20m

The arete right of the flying buttress


Courant d'air. A good buttress on the north west side of the tower

C01 Haute tension 7a 30m
C02 Jalousie tropicale 7a+ 10m
C03 Le vol des costauds 7a+ 30m
C04 Pacifique tempo 6b+ 30m
C05 Courant d'air 5c 30m

The big crack. Either climb it in traditional style or more elegantly on the left. Hard start.

C06 Hommage à Walter 6c+ 30m
C07 Crackinette 6b 15m
C08 Alliance technique 6c 15m ***

Nice technical climbing

C09 le ramoneur des ämes 6c 15m
C10 Grés noble 6a+ 20m
C11 Parfum d'automne 6b 15m

limbs to the left hand side of the window

C12 Degouts et des douleurs 6b 15m

Up to the right hand side of the window

C13 A bout de moufles 6a+ 15m
C14 Jeux d'enfants 6a+ 10m
C15 Monstros globulos 6c 10m
C16 Mini Mome 5a

Crags in this region: