Bettlerküche

Situated on the top of the hills above the Aare valley, Bettlerküche is in a perfect position to enjoy the views of the Swiss plain. Admittedly the crag itself is hidden in the trees, which provide welcome shade in the summer, but let a bit of warmth through when the leaves have dropped. The climbing here has been recently re bolted, giving some generally hard, but well protected routes. There is variety too, from the slabs on the lower buttress, to the steep overhanging walls on the upper section, with a few cracks and walls in between. Well worth a visit.

Region
Switzerland - Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
1100m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Faces
South
Directions

From the main Bern, Zurich Autobahn take the exit that leads to the village of Farnern, and continue to the top of the hill where there is a large car layby, with climbing possible out of the car. The better buttresses are the lower tier, just 2 minutes walk, and the upper tier, less than 5 minutes up the hill.

Bettlerküche, escalade, climbing, klettern topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

SECTOR LOWER WALL
01 Senso unico 7a 25m
02 Chruschbi 7a

Same start and finish as Senso unico
03 Matrix 7b
04 Tag und Nacht 7a
05 Land of confusion 7b+
06 Café au Lait 6c 35m

Climb Riss to halfway and then move left
07 Riss 6a+ 35m ***

The classic of the crag. Climb the crack left of the large tree to the top. Gets easier, the higher you go. Excellent
08 Dräckspatz 6c+ 30m

Climbs the steep slab just left of the tree with a difficult section low down, and before the lower off
09 Jura blues 7b

Start up Halbmond and then climb direct
10 Halbmond 6a

Starts just right of the tree, climbing righrtwards and then back left. A slighty more direct version missing out the kink is 7b+
11 Slalom 6c+

On the right hand side
12 SECTOR

SECTOR ROADSIDE
13 Lärmzone 6a+ 10m

The left hand route on the roadside buttress, starting up Linker Riss
14 Linker Riss 5b 10m

The left hand crack line
15 Mus 6a

Start up Moskito and move left
16 Moskito 5c+
17 Rechter Riss 5a

The right hand crack
18 Zytlose 6b
20 SECTOR

SECTOR MIDDLE WALL. The smooth middle wall has a few bolted lines: 6a+; 6a; project; 7b; project
30 SECTOR

SECTOR UPPER WALL
30a SECTOR

SECTOR UPPER WALL LEFT
31 Go West 6b

The left hand side of the left hand upper wall
32 Na Kurt 6c+
33 Monkey face 8a

The obvious line up the middle of the wall
34 Puffi 6a+

The left to right crack, moving back left at the top to the lower off
35 Hart sieben 7b

Starts just right of Puffi and climbs direct to the lower off, left of Benson. The 2nd pitch is a project
36 Benson 8a

Climbs Puffi to about half height and then goes direct
37 Blonder Engel 6c+

Starts up Hart Sieben, moves right and finishes direct to the lower off of Puffi
39 Teamwork 6c

Starts between Hart Sieben and Vergissmeinnicht, and trends up and right
39a SECTOR

SECTOR UPPER WALL RIGHT
40 Vergissmeinnicht 6a 15m

Climb the broken wall and then move right and follow a series of ledges to the lower off
41 De Nuggi 6c 15m
41e De Nuggi extension 7c 30m
42 Aquarius 7b+ 30m
43 Frosch 6c+ 15m
44 Erfinder 6c 30m
46 Kansas City shuffle 8b 20m

boulder problem
47 Paperlapapp 7a+ 20m
48 Little Buddha 7c 20m
49 Frostzyt 7c 20m
50 Steff la Cheffe 8a 20m
51 Salu Marc 7b 25m
52 Powerplay 6c+ 25m

Climbing past the last bolt instead of stepping right increases the grade to 7a
52a Fusion 7a+ 20m

Start up Powerplay, or further right, continue to traverse where Powerplay moves right, then finish direct with some hard moves
53 Power Please 7c

A hard (in)direct start to Powerplay
55 Peace Please 7a 25m

The direct finish is 7a+
56 Sänfte Gewalt 7a 25m

Steep and sustained
57 Hotberry 7a+

Same lower off as Sänfte
58 Kinder an die Macht 7b

Same start as Hotberry but move right to a hard final move
59 Exit 7a 20m

A hard start leads to steep climbing
60 Armageddon 7a 20m

Climbs through the rockfall at the right hand side of the crag. Looks dangerous and probably is

Crags in this region: