Falkenstein is geologically interesting, with the large cliff split into three distinct sections. The lower tier has a few routes, but are mostly of value as the access to the other two. The middle tier has some excellent short routes, and a couple of longer ones, although these can be dirty if there has not been much traffic. The routes on the right hand side of the middle tier finish on an exposed ridge, and it is a pleasant excursion to it's summit on the E side. The upper cliff also has some nice shorter routes, and excellent views of the valley. During the nesting season, climbing is not allowed from the beginning of February to end July.
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
There are a few old grade 3/4 traditional routes at the left hand side of the terrace, but these are dirty and rarely climbed. Nervenriss is the first "clean" route. Tricky to clip the first bolt, and a friend 2 will be useful higher up.
|02||Sinn des Lebens||7c+||8m||
The 2nd route from the left on the short left hand section. Desperate!
Boulder problem start, move right and then back left
|04||Tanz der Frösche||7b+||10m||**||
An amusing first move and keeps it's interest
Another hard start
Boulder problem start, a couple of bolts and then a trad crack climb.
To the right of "Oben ohne" is a bolted wall .Climb this, finishing more easily, but with natural protection up the finishing crack.It is possible to traverse right after the 3rd bolt to connect with Nonnenrutsch, making an excellent eliminate. Slightly easier than continuing to the crack.
A long classic route starting in the small gully/corner that climbs up and leftwards to a small overhang. Go over this, or round it on the left, and continue up following the bolts and the cleanest line to the summit
The line of bolts just to the right of Nonnenrutsch starting at the same place, but moving dirctly over the lip at the bolt
Start as for Nonnenrutsch but go direct over the small overhang snd follow the rightward trending crack
|10a||Keine Chance für dicke Arsche||6c||20m||**||
A direct start to Benediktusverschneidung. The hard move at the first bolt can be avoided by moving left (6a+)
Climbs direct to the lower off of Benediktungsverschneidung
A nice route, although the bolts could be better placed. Also possible to reach the same lower off by the bolts on the left at the same grade, but usually dirty
Over blocks to the lower off of Bruderbrunnenweg
Follow the corner on the arete, starting on the left, or slightly harder, direct.
At the left hand side of the slab you reach from the lower tier, is a corner. Climb this to a small overhang, and go round this with difficulty. As a fun finish to this route, traverse the ridge to the right to finish on the summit of the middle tier with wonderful views of Schlüchttal.
The corner to the right of Einbahnstrasse is climbed to the small overhang, where a boulder problem leads to a second tricky move and the top
The slab to the right of Hungertuch has a thin crack in it, that is difficult to climb.
The right hand line on the first slab you reach from the lower tier
Direct up the arete to the summit
After the crack climb the unprotected slab, or follow Bäumlerverschneidung
nuts needed. one bolt.
|28||Gang jetzt, i ha Durchsucht||5b||***||
nice climbing with a finishing hand jam crack
Hardest at the start
|31||Wir werden was wir sind||6c+|