Schlüchttal Schwedenfels
An excellent sport climbing crag with about 40 routes up to 40m in length. Grades between 5a and 8b. The rock is clean and solid, the crag faces south, gets hot in the summer but is pleasant in the winter. Some routes stay dry in the rain. Routes are mostly well bolted, although can be run out, especially on the easier sections.
From Waldshut follow the directions to Witznau. Just past the Gasthof Witznau turn into Schlüchtal. The crags lie along the next few kilometers of road. Schwedenfels is right next to the road on the left hand side with a very convenient layby underneath. About 1.5 km from Gasthof Witznau. 1 minute walking.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 00 | SECTOR | 37m | SCHWEDENFELS OBERE WAND |
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| 01 | Graf Dracula | 6b+ | 20m | The first route on the left hand side of the upper wall. Climb steeply to the same lower off as Fledermausweg, with difficulty at the end. |
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| 02 | Fledermausweg | 6a | ** | |
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| 03 | Inkarnation | 7a | *** | Tricky overhang |
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| 04 | Einsiedlerweg | 5c | ** | two pitch route |
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| 05 | Ausflug ins Nirwana | 7b | *** | steep |
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| 06 | Thor's Hammer | 7a+ | *** | Crux at the end |
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| 07 | Querweg | 5b | An alpine sort of route |
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| 08 | Roter Milan Direkt | 6a+ | * | Another alpine route |
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| 09 | Rechter Einsteig | 6a+ | * | variant start to Roter Milan |
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| 10 | Roter Milan | 6b+ | 40m | *** | Excellent two pitch route with a tricky sequence on the first pitch past 3 old bolts (6b+) and an exposed but well bolted second pitch (6a). 80m rope needed to descend in one rappel. Tie a knot. |
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| 11 | Chupa la Chapa | 6c+ | * | Variation 2nd pitch to La Paz. Easier to dyno the move |
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| 13 | Axelle | 7a+ | 20m | ** | Sustained direct start to 1st pitch of La Paz |
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| 14 | La Paz | 6a+ | 40m | ** | Long two pitch route. Excellent after the first part. 1) 6a+, Traverse right and then back left to climb the steep wall to the belay 2) 6a+ Trend left and climb directly up the wall above. Abseil descent. A 70m rope will only just touch the higher ground with the stretch. |
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| 15 | Quatropunktus | 4b | two pitch trad route |
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| 16 | Drachenrücken | 10m | ** | short pitch to the right of La Paz |
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| 20 | SECTOR | SCHWEDENFELS MITTLERE WAND |
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| 21 | Hintere Direkte | 6a+ | |
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| 22 | Krambambuli | 7a | ** | Tricky move at the first overhang |
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| 23 | Kalahari | 7b | ** | Variation finish to Krambambuli |
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| 23b | Happy Frog | 6c | ** | Just to the right of Krambambuli. Nice climbing to a tricky move to tbe lower off |
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| 23c | Flying Frog | 7c | an extension to Happy Frog |
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| 24 | Minimum mit Gummi drum | 7c | * | not quite as nice as the rest, and a terrible single move at the end |
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| 24b | Maximum im Bruch darum | 6c+ | The line of bolts between Minimum and King Level. Hard at the second bolt. |
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| 25 | King Level | 6c | *** | Excellent varied climbing. A technical small overhang and a powerful big overhang |
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| 26 | Tanz auf den Buchstaben | 7b+ | *** | large font, small holds, followed by a wall and roof |
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| 27 | Schattenspiele | 7b+ | *** | Excellent wall climbing. Tricky to clip. |
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| 28 | Die Schrift | 6c+ | *** | 6c+; After the first overhang a smooth corner and wall. 6a The second pitch is tricky and run out. |
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| 29 | Goliath | 7c+ | *** | A classic. 7a; 7c+ |
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| 30 | Hopp oder Flopp | 8b | ** | A mega variation finish to Goliath |
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| 31 | Andromeda | 6b | ** | A thought provoking route to the lower off below the roof |
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| 31e | Andromeda extension | 7b+ | 35m | Continues with a powerful pull over the roof |
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| 32 | Einstürzende Neubauten | 7a | *** | Easy climbing to finish straight over the roof |
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| 33 | Via Classica | 7c | ** | Easy to start, hard to finish 4c; 7c |
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| 34 | Sachsenweg | 4c | *** | A classic climbed after the 2nd world war 4b;4c |
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| 34a | Traumtänzer | 7b+ | ** | meaty fingery climbing from the 1st lower off on Sachsenweg. If you can, you should |
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| 34z | SECTOR | SCHWEDENFELS UNTERE WAND |
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| 35 | Sachsenweg direct | 5b | ** | Easier after the start |
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| 36 | Alter Schwede | 6b+ | ** | Worthwhile climbing, with the crux at the 2nd bolt |
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| 37 | Ursus horribilis | 6b | 25m | ** | Two tricky sections on the traverse left |
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| 38 | Direkter Schrei | 7a | 25m | *** | Another classic. After a boulder problem start, continue direct. The crux section can be avoided by moving left to reach a large hold and then back right (long reach). This reduces the grade slightly (Schrei nach Stein - 6c+) |
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| 39 | Naiaberau | 7a | *** | Popular technical and powerful classic |
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| 40 | Eiszeit | 6c+ | *** | A long, exposed and demanding classic |
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| 41 | Mondscheinkante | 7b | *** | A run out and powerful classic with two hard sections in the lower half |
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| 42 | Mondfinsternis | 7c | *** | At the 3rd bolt of Mondscheinkante move right to reach the lower off of Schwedenverschneidung |
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| 43 | Schwedenverschneidung | 5c+ | ** | The first route about 15 seconds from the car. Start over the slabs then follow the, at times, run out corner |
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| 99 | Grande Traverse | 7b+ | 130m | ** | A six pitch R to L traverse of the crag |
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