Telli

One of Central Switzerland's better crags, Telli has a range of routes from 5c slabs through to steep 8b walls. The rock is generally good, and on the easier routes at least has good holds. Access is relatively easy, with the added attraction of swimming in the lake. It's low, sheltered position also means climbing is possible on sunny winter days, as well as in the shade on hot summer mornings. On hot summer afternoons there is a pleasant deep water soloing crag just below the car park that offers great sport after a hard morning.

Region
Switzerland - Central
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
450m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8b
Faces
South West
Directions
Park at a large layby about halfway along the road that runs alongside the lake between Alpnachstadt and Stanstad. The laybay is 30 seconds from the lake, and is popular for swimming and windsurfing. There is an old quarry above and to the right of the car park. This does NOT lead to the crag. Instead walk along the road towards Alpnachstad to an underpass under the railway line. Follow the path (marked with cairns) that leads to the middle of the routes. (10 to 15 minutes from the car). Climbs are described from left to right
Telli, escalade, climbing, klettern topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
0 SECTOR

SECTOR TELLI
01 Cliffroute 40m

An A2 aid route situated at the top, far left side of the crag
02 Schnouswäg 6c+ 40m
03 Schweissfuss 6c+ 40m
04 Spitzwägerich 6b+ 40m
05 Perverse in Haus 7b 40m
06 Thanatos 6b+ 40m
07 Telli links 6a 30m
08 Telli 6b 35m
09 Tellirium 6b+ 30m
10 Bluetsuger 6b 35m
11 111 6b+
12 Telli phon 6b 35m

An excellent route that trends up and leftwards initially and then direct on large holds. The name is written at the bottom of the route. Located with the other "Telli" routes at the top left hand side of the crag.

13 Einewäg 6b+
14 Löchliwäg 6a+ 40m
15 Telligraph 6b
16 Via Gloria 5c+ 35m

The rising right to left weakness has big holds, but is still steep
17 SMS 6b
18 Wellenreiter 6c+ 35m
19 Fantasie 6b+ 35m
20 Sniffer 7a 40m
21 Rauhreif Parkett 7a+ 40m
22 Via Diagonale 5c 40m
23 Pilgrim 7a 40m
23a SECTOR

SECTOR BEKLOPTONANIE. Reached after 15 minutes by taking the right hand fork in the path about half way up the crag
24 Galant 6b 40m

The name is painted on the foot of the route in large red letters. About 2/3 of the way up the crag
25 Westwand 6c+ 40m
26 Nussknacker 7a 40m
27 The Wilderness 7c+ 40m
28 Bekloptonanie 7b 30m

Name written at the bottom, the route is about half way along the crag, reached by taking the right hand fork in the path
29 Eldunari 7c+ 17m
36 Duc Power 8b+ 40m
37 Orgasmotron 7b 30m
38 Blues Power 7c+
39 Baracuda 6c+
40 Lilienkante 5c+ 50m

Long and steep for the grade
42 Schlucht 5a 25m
43 Lilienwand 6a 25m
43a SECTOR

SECTOR SHORT WALL. A short smooth wall shortly after the lower MEPHISTO sector
44 Flugäpilz 6b+ 15m
45 Mordillo 6b+ 15m
45a SECTOR

SECTOR MEPHISTO. The first routes are reached after about 10 minutes from the car park
46 Pornorama 7a 20m
47 Ass-Face 7c 20m
48 Massacre 7b 20m
49 Xanadu 7a+ 20m
50 Game of Death 6b+ 20m
51 May be 8a 20m
52 Mephisto 8b 20m
53 Nautilus
54 Exodus 5a 20m
55 Variante QE2 5c
55a SECTOR

SECTOR TUNNEL. Above the train tunnel
56 Xevios 5a 20m
57 El Paso 6a+
58 Mandela 6a+ 20m
59 Überhang 6a 20m
60 Flummi 6a 20m
61 Fledermaus 6a 20m
62 Fuck machine 6c 20m
62 Quergang 6c+ 20m

A low boulder traverse from Fuck Machine to Xevious
63 Viciau Games 6c 20m
64 Psychobubble 7b+ 20m
65 Schwarzer Engel 7b 20m
66 La dolce vita 7b
67 Cooky 7c+ 20m
68 Keule 6c+ 20m
69 Licht und Schatten 9a+
89 LAKESIDE

DEEP WATER SOLOING
90 Telli Traverse 6b+ 20m

Next to the lake, just 100m from the car park is a pleasant little deep water soloing crag. The obvious left to right traverse is not as easy as it looks!
91 What's on the Telli? 6b+ 8m

In the middle of the crag, just left of the easy way up, is a steep arete. Climb it with a couple of difficult moves, particularly when your feet and hands are wet!
92 Telli vision 5a 8m

The easy groove towards the right hand side of the crag

Crags in this region: