Terradets - Paret de les Bruixes

Terradets is a very impressive gorge in the Serra del Montsec 40km or so North of Balaguer. Amongst the many big walls is the single pitch sport crag, Paret de les Bruixes. A very steep overhanging wall of tightly knitted tufas, it gives superb, albeit hard climbing, that requires good stamina. Grade 7b upwards is the focus here. There a few "easier" 6b to 7a routes, but are now so polished as result of being used as a warm up, that they are not worth a visit in their own right. The crag gets the sun in the afternoon, how soon depends on the steepness of the route you are trying! Many of the routes have their name written on a glued on pebbles at the bottom. An interesting ethical dilemna as to whether to avoid the polish and use this as a foothold.

Region
Spain - Balaguer
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
400m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
7a to 9a
Faces
South West
Climbing Area
Balaguer
Directions

Follow the road from Camarasa towards Tremp until it enters the Terradets gorge where there is a large car park to admire the big wall climbs. Continue for another 1km or so, to a small road on the right that leads to a dam over the river. Park just after this dam (or just before if all the spaces are taken). A path leads up a short wall on the right, follow this up passing along a concrete wall to reach the base of the crag in 10 minutes.

Climbing topo Terradets Paret de les Bruixes

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Madrono 6b+ 15m

The first route on the left hand side, as you arrive at the crag
02 Pisa Pins 7a 20m
03 Vordi Na 6c+ 20m

To the left of Tan me Fa, joining that route at the 1st lower off.
04 Tan me Fa 7a 20m *

Just to the left of Chasquilla. A polished boulder problem to the 2nd bolt, then more reasonable climbing.
05 Chasquilla 6b 15m *

Polished and with long reaches
06 L'Avaricia 7b+ 15m
07 Territorio Indio 7b+ 20m
08 Tak band 7c 20m

Same start as Territori, but moving right to finish at the same lower off.
09 L'Ansia 7a+ 22m
10 Pasta sin Agua 7a+ 30m
11 Jam Sesion 7b 30m ***
12 Derribos Arias 7b+ 30m
13 Penya Xunga 7b 30m
14 Terambana 7b+ 30m

same finish as Penya
15 Primera Linea 7c+ 30m
16 Milenium 8a 30m
17 Flix Flax 8a+ 30m
18 Golpe de Gas 8b 30m
19 El Latido del Miedo 8a 30m
20 Agora 7c+ 35m
21 Bon Viatge 8a 35m
22 No war in the rock 8c 30m
23 Una Bonita Sesion de Mete y saca 7c+ 30m
24 La Indomable 7c+ 30m

The extension is 8a (and 35m)
25 Formula weekend 8a 30m

Extension is 8a+ (35m)
26 Energia Positiva 7c+ 35m
27 Enderrocs 7c+ 35m
28 Orient 7c+ 35m
29 Last line 7c+ 35m
30 Maneras de Vivir 8a 35m
31 Mallorca es Funky 7c+ 35m
32 Tirabolts 8a+ 35m
33 Xarop de Basto 8a 35m
34 Occident 7c 35m
35 Red Bull 7c+ 25m

Extension is 8a (30m)
36 Avant Match 7c 25m
37 Link 8a 30m

Links Avant Match with Treking at 2/3 height
38 Treking 8a+ 30m
39 L'Adrecador 8a+ 30m
40 Efecte 2000 8a 30m
41 Fora Dubtes 7c+ 30m
42 L'Integrista 8a 30m
43 Pomplemouse Rose 7c+ 30m
44 Variation 8b+ 30m

Starts up Definicion de Accion and traverses left to finish up Pomplemouse Rose
45 Definicion de Accion 8c 25m
46 Otra Leccion Mas 8c 25m
47 La Leccion Ocho 8c+ 25m
48 Non stop 8b 25m
49 La Esencia de la Resistencia 8c+ 25m
50 L'Anarkista 8a+ 25m
51 Tocant el Dos 8a+ 30m
52 Ranking 7c+ 30m
53 Almendros de Nata 8a 30m
54 Democracia 8b 30m

Start up L'Anarkista and move right after the roof
55 Esencia - Non stop link 8c 25m

Start up L'Esencia and move left after the roof to finish up Non Stop
56 Definicion de Resistencia 9a 25m

Start up Definicion de Accion and finish up La Esencia de la resistencia
57 Definicion de Resistencia Democratia 9a+ 35m

Start up Definicion de Accion and keep moving right to finish up Democracia

Crags in this region: