France - Provence

Crag

A friendly little crag with some  excellent mid grade routes. It has easy access, gets the sun until mid afternoon and is well bolted with mostly slabby / vertical routes up to 30m in length.

The crag has two distinct butresses, Les balcons des villes on the left (looking in) and Les jardins des villes on the right. The direct approach path arrives between the two.

Les Balcon has roughly 40 routes between 6b and 7c on the LHS and between 4c and 6a

Les Jardins has about 50 routes mostly between 5b and 7b.

 

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
4c - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the morning and early afternoon
Crag

The climbing at Orgon is in a surprisingly beautiful location given its proximity to the Autoroute du Soleil. It has a small lake and a cirque of beautiful crags that has excellent pocketed and well bolted wall and slab climbing. Most of the 250+ routes are in the V to 6c range, with the Canalissime sector having routes up to 9a. There is a campsite next to the lake. Climbing is possible all year round, although most people will find the summer months too hot. Autumn, Winter and Spring are ideal.

Number of routes
250
Range of Routes
Mostly 5a to 6c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
It depends on the sector! Mostly sectors A to D and J,K,L get the sun in the morning, the rest in the afternoon
Crag

An historical village that has been brought back to life by the wealth of climbing within walking distance. Orpierre has climbs up to 8bish, many routes in the 7a to 7c range, but with the majority of the routes in the beginner and intermediate category. It is a beautiful location, with many of the crags profiting from the winter sun, that come into the shade later in the day. Sunny winter days, spring and autumn are the best seasons.

It is popular with groups, and as a result most of the routes are getting very polished, but despite this, it is still a lovely place to climb.

Number of routes
1000
Range of Routes
3 to 8
Rock Type
Limestone