Switzerland - Bernese Oberland
The Engelhörner is a huge area of bizarre limestone peaks offering many long alpine routes with some excellent multi pitch sport routes mixed in. The small Engelhörner hut at the foot of the peaks makes an excellent base for the routes, with a warm welcome and friendly hosts. The area is complex and can be a bit confusing on the first visit. There are a large number of peaks, the most popular ones being those that circle around the Ochsetal that leads up from the hut.
Crag
It looks like a friendly Swiss crag, but Kingspitze is actually a major Alpine undertaking.
Crag
At the left hand side of the cirque of cliffs surrounding the Ochsel valley are three impressive peaks. Klein Simeler, gross Simeler and Vorderspitze are connected by a long ridge climb and several modern classics taking direct lines to the summits. All of the hard routes are well protected with bolts, some backup wires and friends useful.
The big green peak. A curious name since it is white for most of the year, maybe black and white at best. It has a wonderful summit, and outstanding views over the Aletsch glacier and the other nearby 4000m mountains. Is it easy to get to the top of it? Well yes. But. In 2011 the reputed Swiss mountaineer Erhard Loretan died just below the summit guiding a female client, after which a spokesman for the Wallis police infamously said "it is not a particularly dangerous mountain". Maybe I climbed a different mountain.
Time to climb
5 to 6 hours from Komkordiahütte to Gross Grünhorn
Crag
One of the best crags for hard sport climbing in the Bernese Oberland. Naturally this has led to many of the routes getting polished, but despite this it remains a favourite destination. The climbing is very interesting, on a limestone / sandstone mix, with all types of holds, from big jugs to tiny crimps through various slopers. Routes are up to 30m in length, generally solid and well bolted, although the bolts can sometimes be spacy.
The view from the parking of the Eiger, Monch and the Jungfrau, adds to the atmosphere and attraction.
Sun
In the morning, but often sheltered by the trees
Crag
A small crag with some excellent routes on a limestone / sandstone mix. The view from the restaurant at the top is worth a visit in its own right.
Sun
From 11h to 17h, although the trees provide a lot of shade
Crag
A small, scenic and interesting winter crag. The cliimbing is on a vertical wall with well bolted routes that are often tough for their grade. Up to 25 metres in length.
Sun
From about 10am to sunset in winter
