Spain

Crag

The sister crag to Furia Latina has some of the easiest routes in Rodellar, and they face North, so remain cool in the summer. You might get your feet wet early in the season, the starts are straight out of the river!

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
5a - 6b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
always in the shade
Crag

La Surgencia is an impressive cliff at the end of the Rodellar valley, where the Rio Mascun is met by the Barranco del Andrebod. It is a crag of two halves. On the left steep climbing on dark tufa'd walls,  on the right a huge 50m overhanging white face. Both halves require climbing from 7a and above, right up to some of the hardest in Rodellar. It faces north and north east, and so gets little sun.

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
7a - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

El Delfin is a hole in a huge limestone wall that when viewed from the North looks uncannily like a dolphin. It gives it's name to one of Rodellar's most photographed routes, a 7c+ that climbs up the lip of the arch. El Delfin also has a few middle grade routes, something which are in short supply in the area. By contrast, the adjoining Las Ventanas has some of Rodellar's hardest routes. An expanse of overhanging white limestone, offering many quality routes.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6a - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A lovely crag with some shaded warm ups for the morning, and sustained test pieces for the afternoon when the sun has slowly moved off the right hand face. The routes on the left look scrappy and loose at first appearance, and although most of the loose rock has disappeared, they should still be treated with care. By contrast the right hand face is a huge sweep of rock consisting of excellent steep tufa climbing. Admittedly becoming polished, but this does not detract from the quality of the routes. Good technique, stamina and a certain amount of push pay dividends here.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6b - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

The impressive pinnacle between Temps des Nuits and Pince sans Rire has some excellent short routes on it's left hand side, and longer, harder ones up it's front face. Most of the crag gets the shade after about 2pm, the cave sections are in the shade a bit earlier.

Number of routes
15
Range of Routes
6a - 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small but worthwhile crag on the north side of the island.  The crag is in a built up area close to the sea. The routes are short, steep, fingery and well bolted.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5a to 8a
Rock Type
Volcanic
Sun
In the sun in the afternoon in the summer
Crag

Santa Ana is a major climbing area next to the large dam of the river Noguera Ribagorcana which forms the Santa Ana reservoir. The river acts as the border between Catalonia and Aragon. The true left bank of the river has climbing on excellent, rough limestone with two distinct cliffs. The Agulles Cara offers wall and slab climbing, with the additional attraction of getting to the summit of a detached pinnacle. It's south face gets the sun all day.  The left hand side of Paret del Vent is in the shade in the morning and provides several mid grade slab and wall climbs.

Number of routes
200
Range of Routes
mostly 6a to 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Cova Gran is one of the most important hard sport climbing crags in the world. Certainly if the density of one pitch hard routes is the measure, it takes a lot of beating. There are 20 or so routes of 9a and above. The climbs here start at 7b, where its nearby neighbour Futbolin stops. The crag itself is set in a very peaceful location (kids and families apart) and although south facing the size of the cave means that much of it is usually in the shade, and certainly late in the day. Many of the routes have in situ karabiners.

Number of routes
70
Range of Routes
7b - 9b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Futbolin is the unlucky little brother of the Cova Grana. Anywhere else it would be heralded as a great crag, here it is overshadowed by its more famous sibling. It has steep wall climbing with generally good holds, that offer the ambitious climber many excellent lines. Gets the sun after about 1pm. 

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
6b - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

One of the best crags in the area, if you climb 7b and above. Long, steep routes up to 40m in length. Wild side is nearly always in the shade, which coupled with the altitude means that it can be cold in winter, although the routes will keep you warm. It is steep, and sheltered from the rain.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
7a - 8c
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A large climbing area in a beautiful location next to the reservoirs of Panté de Saint LLorenc de Montgal. The crags face south and are a mixture of solid red limestone and conglomerate. The former thinks that it is granite. and hence gives powerful and technical climbing. The conglemerate is, well, conglomerate. The south facing nature makes the crags most suitable as a winter or early / late year destination. There are many hard test pieces, often undergraded and getting slippier than when first done. Alongside these are longer, easier multi pitch routes.

Number of routes
200
Range of Routes
All
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A long escarpment with hundreds of routes up to 25m in length. It faces east and gets the sun until about 1pm, although this varies a bit according to the sector. The rock is usually good and the climbing often steep on good holds. The routes are well bolted and the names (and grades) are sometimes written at the bottom of the routes

Number of routes
200
Range of Routes
Mostly 6a to 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Terradets is a very impressive gorge in the Serra del Montsec 40km or so North of Balaguer. Amongst the many big walls is the single pitch sport crag, Paret de les Bruixes. A very steep overhanging wall of tightly knitted tufas, it gives superb, albeit hard climbing, that requires good stamina. Grade 7b upwards is the focus here. There a few "easier" 6b to 7a routes, but are now so polished as result of being used as a warm up, that they are not worth a visit in their own right. The crag gets the sun in the afternoon, how soon depends on the steepness of the route you are trying!

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
7a to 9a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A pleasant south facing set of slabs just above the village of the same name. The routes are better than they appear from the road.

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
4a - 7a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Most of the day