Cheselenfluh
Cheselenflue is the big impressive cliff that can be seen from the Stockalp to Melchsee Frutt road, or ski piste in winter. It is set in a beautiful location and has a number of friendly multi pitch routes that are well bolted and on generally good rock. It faces due south and so, given good conditions, it is possible to climb here nearly all year round. Clearly when the sun is in full force in the summer, it will be too hot, and when the ledges have snow on them in winter, impractical, but otherwise it dries and warms up quickly. The routes left of the waterfall offer steep, technical wall climbing, those to the right are more overhanging and stay dry in the rain. Descent is by abseil, close to the routes. On the right hand side the abseil descents will test the nerves, and it is important to be competent, and know how to use the fixed ropes to get back onto the rock. Access to the cliff is relatively easy, and so it can be popular when condtions are good. More detailed topos can be found here: https://www.melchsee-frutt.com/topos-cheselen.html
Outside the ski season, take the road that leads from Stockalp to Melchsee Frutt and after the road has gone under the gondola, park for Cheselenalp. Follow the footpath from here to the crag (about 40 minutes). It is also possible to park a bit higher up, on the hairpin bend, after the road has gone under the gondola for the second time (20 minute walk, limited parking). If the parking is full, you will have to continue to Melchsee Frutt. Note that the road is one way, the direction changing every two hours. If you miss the uphill slot, you will have to wait an hour, or walk from Stockalp (about 50 minutes)
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| 01 | Pulsar | 7a | 200m | Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6b obligatory. Abseil descent. Pitches: 5b, 6b, 6c, 6a+, 6a+, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6b, 6b+. |
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| 02 | Technoparty | 6c+ | 200m | A nice route with a beautiful final pitch. Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6b obligatory. Abseil descent. Pitches: 5c+; 5c+; 6c; 6a+; 6b; 6a+; 6c+ |
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| 03 | Überholspur | 6c | 150m | Fully bolted, 2x50m rope. 6c obligatory. Abseil descent, take at least 18 quick draws. 4 pitches: 6b+; - ; 6c; 6b+ |
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| 04 | Meteorit | 5c+ | 200m | The easiest route on the cliff is often combined with the top two pitches of Roter Punkt. Take two 50m ropes. Abseil descent. 7 pitches, stances 2 and 5 are shared with Überholspur. 1) 5c+; 2) 5b+; 3) trend left at 5c+. Überholspur goes direct at 6c; 4) 5c; 5) keep left to the lower off of Überholspur; 6) 5b; 7) 5c+ . It is possible at the end of pitch 4 to move right to join the belay of Roter Punkt, and finish up the last two pitches of that route 6a; 6b; |
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| 05 | Roter Punkt | 6c | 200m | Start at the route name left of a large corner. 2x50m ropes required, well bolted, 6b obligatory. Abseil down the route. Stances 3 and 4 are shared with a sister route Kontinuum that starts further right. Roter Punkt has 7 pitches: 1) 6b+; 2) 5c+; 3) Keep left 6b+, Kontinuum goes right here and joins at the next stance ; 4) Keep left, Kontinuum goes right. 5a; 5) 6c; 6) 6a; 7) 6b |
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| 06 | Unterwegs nach Hause | 6c+ | 200m | An independent line at the right hand side of this sector. 2x50m ropes, 6b+ obligatory, abseil down the route. 7 pitches: 6b; 6b; 6a+; 6b+; 6a; 6c+; 6b+ |
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| 07 | Trockener Regen | 6c+ | 80m | Starts right of the cave and left of Dr blau Chäfer. Steep! 2x50m rope, fully bolted. Abseil descent. 5 pitches: 5b; 6b; 6c; 6c+; 6b |
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| 08 | Der blaue Käfer | 6a+ | 150m | A steep route with an exciting abseil descent. 2x50m rope; 6a obligatory. 6 pitches, move left after the 4th where "Die Männer" goes right: 5c; 6a+; 6a; 6a+; 6a+; 6a | |
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| 09 | Die Männer von Memmental | 7a+ | 180m | Another steep pitch that climbs through the big roof and has an exciting descent. 2x50m ropes, abseil descent. 5 pitches, move right at the end of the 2nd pitch where Dr blau Chäfer goes left: 6b+; 6c+; 7a+; 6c+ (1 pt aid); 6b+ |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
