A very special needle, and a very special location. Aguglia Goloritze rises 200m above the emerald green Mediterranean sea. It has a handful of routes that all finish on the tiny pointed summit, with beautiful views of the coastline and its fascinating rock formations. The cliff is solid, perhaps getting a little polished, particularly on the popular routes, but nevertheless a summit that should be on most people's tick list.
Sport and bolted routes
|Topo Ref||Route||Sport Grade||Length||Quality||Description||Tick|
|01||Il Mio Veleno||7a||100m||Gold||
One of the best routes in Italy. Start on a ledge on the east face at the bottom of a crack. (1) 6c+ Climb the crack, chimney and slab to the first belay 35m (2) 7a Climb the bulge, up a flake, mantelshelf, traverse left and over the roof to the second stance 45m (3) Climb the wall and then arete in a superb position to finish on the summit 30m
|02||Sinfonia dei mulini a vento||6c||165m||**||
The original route to the summit was climbed in 1981. Some nuts and friends may be useful (1) 6b. Start as for Sole Incantore, but continue left to a belay below a chimney - 40m (2) 5a. Climb the chimney to the top of the pedestal (3) 6c. Climb a short crack and traverse right to the belay of Solo Incantore (4) 6b. Climb the crack up the slab trending right to the arete (5) 5a. Up the slab to the summit.
The route is reasonably well bolted, but might be worth having a few wires just in case. (1) 6b. Follow the cracks from the lowest point of the North face, the one facing the beach, more or less direct to the belay below a hanging corner 40m. It is possible to split this pitch by climbing slightly left and then back right .(2) 6b+ Climb the polished corner with difficulty at first and continue in the same line to a good belay. 40m (3) 6c. The crux slab pitch is not easy, but well bolted. Climb the slab on rounded scoops with the occasional good crimp, always trending left to reach the ledge at the top of the slab 20m (4) 6b. Either climb directly over the bulge (6c) or go right and back left around it (beware of rope drag) to climb the arete and a belay just below the top 35m. (5) finish easily to the summit. Exhilarating. 5m