Churfirsten - Tristencholben
Tristencholben is the rounded pinnacle east of Rosenboden that is clearly visible when you walk round the "Blumenweg" from the Chäsenrugg cable car. At first sight it is a daunting place to climb. A 200m cliff with impressive curved strata reminiscent of Mousetrap on the sea cliffs of Gogarth in North Wales. Despite its looks, the actual climbing is mostly solid on positive holds, with the usual loose rock lying on the ledges. Care should be taken if people are climbing below you.The overhanging nature of the cliff makes some of the pitches very exposed as they traverse on large projecting blocks between strata. The steep descent gully that gives access to the base of the routes should also not be underestimated, especially if the grass is wet. It can be made safe by two 50m abseils, one from the first rock bluff, and the second either from chains on the right hand side (facing out) , or from the belay of Idr Schoonziit.
From Unterwassen take the train and then cable car to the summit of Chäsenrugg. From here walk east along the Blumenweg until Tristencholben comes into view. Drop down to the small col at the top of the gully. Walk / abseil down this to the foot of the routes. About 35 minutes from the cable car on the way there and 45 minutes on the way back. Note that the last cable car down is at about 17.15, and it is a long walk back to the car park.
Rosenboden is a wonderful place to bivvy with its sunsets, sunrises, beautiful meadows and stunning views of the surrounding mountains and down to Walensee. As well as the alpine flowers, there are also many Steinbock and Ptarmigan to be seen.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 01 | Idr schoonziit | 6c | 160m | Climbs from the staple belay 50m below the abseil point at the top of the gully. (1) 6b+; (2) 6c) (3) 5c (4) 6b+ |
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| 02 | Stiärägrind | 6a | 200m | *** | An excellent, committing route with nice exposure, especially on pitch 2. Shares the same start as Munigrund, the name is written at the base of the route. Bolts are present on nearly all the hard sections, but nuts and friends useful. (1) 5b Climb up large blocks past several bolts to a bolt belay. 40m (2) 6a. Traverse left (exposed) using a nut and friends for protection to reach a groove where a move is made left around a bulge to reach the belay. 35m (3) 6a. Continue up trending diagonally left, some friends useful. 40m (4) 5c Continue straight up past several bolts to belay on a ledge 40m. (5) 6a. Move right and up on nice grey limestone to move left round a bulge and a belay at the top of the corner. A second belay is available 10m higher up. (50m (6) Scramble to the top and an abseil descent off the back of the pinnacle. |
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| 03 | Munigrund | 5b | 220m | A remarkable route. It is a lot easier than it looks from the view point on Rosenboden, nevertheless still a committing undertaking. (1) 2b Traverse right along ledges to a bolt belay (2) 4c (3) 4c (4) 5b (5) 4b (6) 5a (7) scramble to the top and descend off the back by a 45m abseil. |
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Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
