Waldeck
A pleasant crag with some excellent, well bolted routes in beautiful surroundings. The Etang de Hanau offers swimming and camping in the summer months
From the south drive to the Etang de Hanau and continue northwards for a kilometre or so to a crossroads , and go straight over towards Waldeck. At the next junction turn left, not right towards Waldeck, and after 500m there is a large parking place on the right. Walk uphill eastwards from here to a crossroads, turn right and almost immdiately left and up to the foot of the crag. About 10 minutes from the car.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| A00 | SECTOR A | Les maines noires. On the south east side, a nice selection of good routes |
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| A02 | Le sale air de la peur | 6b | 15m | A hard sandy start leads to nicer climbing |
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| A03 | Bon grés, malgré | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| A04 | Korrigan | 6c | 15m | A hard move round the bulge, and then still sustained to the lower off |
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| A05 | Les trois curés | 6a+ | 15m | Climb out of the corner onto the wall. Careful with rope drag over the arete |
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| A06 | Les maines noires | 7a+ | 15m | Over the roof with difficulty and leftwards up the wall. A good route. |
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| A07 | Aurore et dame natione | 7b+ | 15m | Over the roof and rightwards up the wall |
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| A08 | Verouillage | 7a+ | 20m | Up the crack and over the roof |
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| A09 | Papy valant | 5b | 10m | The left hand side of the flying buttress to the roof |
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| A10 | Croqueuer d'oreille | 25m | The extension to papy valant |
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| A11 | Pierrot la tune | 5c | 10m | The middle of the flying buttress to the roof |
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| A12 | Le retour du jet d'ail | 6b | 25m | The extension to Pierrot joins La minime just before the lower off |
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| A13 | Chateauteau du sable | 5c+ | 10m | Starts at the right hand side and climbs to the top of the Flying buttress. A nice bulge on good holds |
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| A14 | La minime | 6a | 20m | The extension to Chateauteau, climbing over the roof |
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| A15 | Tolerance | 7a | 20m | Just to the right of the flying buttress |
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| A16 | Tous les clous sont dans la nature | 6b+ | 20m | The arete right of the flying buttress |
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| C00 | SECTOR C | Courant d'air. A good buttress on the north west side of the tower |
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| C01 | Haute tension | 7a | 30m | |
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| C02 | Jalousie tropicale | 7a+ | 10m | |
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| C03 | Le vol des costauds | 7a+ | 30m | |
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| C04 | Pacifique tempo | 6b+ | 30m | |
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| C05 | Courant d'air | 5c | 30m | The big crack. Either climb it in traditional style or more elegantly on the left. Hard start. |
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| C06 | Hommage à Walter | 6c+ | 30m | |
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| C07 | Crackinette | 6b | 15m | |
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| C08 | Alliance technique | 6c | 15m | *** | Nice technical climbing |
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| C09 | le ramoneur des ämes | 6c | 15m | |
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| C10 | Grés noble | 6a+ | 20m | |
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| C11 | Parfum d'automne | 6b | 15m | limbs to the left hand side of the window |
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| C12 | Degouts et des douleurs | 6b | 15m | Up to the right hand side of the window |
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| C13 | A bout de moufles | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| C14 | Jeux d'enfants | 6a+ | 10m | |
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| C15 | Monstros globulos | 6c | 10m | |
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| C16 | Mini Mome | 5a | |