Engelhörner Kingspitze

It looks like a friendly Swiss crag, but Kingspitze is actually a major Alpine undertaking.

Reading the topo, you see the max grade of 5c, bolts on all the stances, and think, "that can't be too bad". And from one point of view it is OK. A strong team, good weather, a bit of knowledge of the descent, and well, it is just a good day out. But get stuck finding the start, have a bit of trouble where the route goes in the middle, get freaked out by the loose top pitch, can't work out how to get down, hit by a an afternoon storm, benighted because you got up too late, and suddenly this fine peak turns into a nightmare. In brief, don't underestimate it. Kingspitze is nearly 600m of vertical limestone, has over 15 pitches if you count the scramble at the start, and the descent takes 5 hours. It is a major undertaking. But the quality of the climbing, the sheer size of it, and the view from this beautiful pointed needle, that has 500m of drop on all sides, makes it one of the classics of the Alps. If you are capable, go for it!


Switzerland - Bernese Oberland
Rock Type
Number of routes
South East
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Nordostwand 5c+ 650m Gold

150m of scrambling, 15 long pitches, and a 4 hour descent.