Germany - Frankenjura

Crag

A nice place, easily accessible and close to Betzenstein swimming pool. Lots of mid grade routes up to 12m in length. It is north facing and stays cool in summer.

Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
4 - 7a+
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Always in the shade
Crag

A small crag very near the road that has some excellent routes up to 15m long. Unfortunately the "classics" are very polished

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
5a - 8b, mostly 7a/7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
North facing
Climbing Area

Germany's largest and most well know climbing area, the Frankenjura has a long history and has been a forcing ground for free climbing as we know it today. The term "Redpoint" comes from the red circles painted at the bottom of the routes when they were first led from the bottom up.

Number of routes
2000
Crag

A small crag with several excellent sustained routes, both in the easier and the harder grades. The climbing is on pockets and is overhanging on the east facing lower side, and vertical on the upper side. Routes are up to 20m long

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
4b to 9a+
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Deep in the forest, the sun is not usually a problem
Crag

A lovely outcrop deep in a beautiful wood. Hexenküche has many excellent routes up to 7b-ish, easy access and as such is a popular venue. The routes go up to 25m in length, and the climbing is on both sides of the outcrop.

Range of Routes
4 to 7b, most routes in the 6s
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
It is deep in the wood so usually in the shade
Crag

Another good, popular, steep, pocketed limestone crag with short (up to 12m) routes. It has a mix of grades.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5a to 8b, mostly 6c to 7c
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
South facing, but shady in the wood
Crag

A small crag with a large cave. Wolfsberg Grotte offers a few hard , steep routes, that unfortunately stay wet a long time.

Number of routes
10
Range of Routes
5c to 8c+
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Always in the shade