Leonidio Twin caves

A crag of two halves. On the left hand side mid grade slabs and cracks, full on in the sun. On the right hand side the big cave, which at its steepest part, although south facing stays in the shade. The routes here are not mid grade!

Region
Greece - Leonidio
Rock Type
Limestone
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Leonidio
Directions

Drive west through Leonidio and turn right up the hill towards the village of Vaskina. The road is steep with lots of hairpins. Park afterr about 4.5 km at the 9th hairpin and walk along the track for a short way until it is possible to climb steeply up to the crag. About 10 minutes.

climbing topo, Twin caves Leonidio

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Dumaneska 5c+ 22m *
02 Gumbo 6a 25m **
03 Bebelino 6a+ 25m **
04 Chrisiktisia 6a 25m **
05 Limoncello 5c+ 22m **
06 Parahorisi 6c 25m **
07 Tsibouri 6a 15m *

To the first lower off
08 Tsibouri extension 7a 25m ***

The second pitch on small fingerholds. Excellent
09 Nanaki 6a+ 15m **
10 Avgi 6b+ 20m **

Start up the crack and then move right round to the right hand side of the arete
11 Agrimi 6b 20m **

starts left of the arete
12 Sakatemenos 6b+ 20m **
13 Peripatos 6b 20m **

the line of bolts just to the right of Sakatemenos, moving right to the arete
14 Salate 6a 20m *

The large corner
15 Vromika Myala 7a+ 25m **

Tufa and slab
16 Panacea 27m
17 Jeremy 7c+ 25m ***
18 Chipotle 7c+ ***
19 Bonobo 7b+ ***

A stamina route up tufas with rest places
20 Mr Magoo 7c+ 22m ***
21 Mr Magoo extension 8a 32m ***

Long reaches
22 Tufandango 8a+ 25m Gold

Tufa blobs at the left hand side of the cave
23 Orion 8b+ 25m

Starts to the right and meets Tufandango near the top
24 Gravity 35m

finishes over the roofs. Grade not known
25 Morchi 8b+ 25m
26 Gaidoura dura 8b+ 30m
27 Anelkysi 8a+ 27m
28 Spinster 8b+ 30m
29 Stock 8a+ 27m
30 Patata Negra 8a+ 25m
31 Fata Morgana 7c+ 25m **

At the right hand side of the big cave. The right hand finish is slightly easier at 7c

Crags in this region: