Piz Buin from Wiesbadener Hütte
Piz Buin is popular perhaps partly due to the sun tan cream that is named after it, but certainly also because it is a beautiful mountain. It requires grade II scrambling to get to the top and is accessible both from the South (the Swiss SAC Camanna Tuoi Hütte), or as described here from the Austrian side, the Wiesbadener Hütte.
click here to see directions to Wiesebadenerhütte
Leave the hut and go south to the start of the Vermuntgletschers (P. 2414 AV-Karte). Cross the eastern ridge of the Ochsental glacier (Grüne Kuppe), then rope up and cross the glacier heading directly west to the cliffs below the East ridge of Silvrettahorn at 2600m. From here head South to the southern end of the glacier , it gets less steep as you get higher, and care is needed with crevasses. Keep going to a ski depot (Buinlücke) at the foot of the west ridge of Piz Buin, it is exposed here to the elements! Climb up the west ridge to the summit cross. This is steep, most parties will use a rope, there is a belay at the end of the left hand branch of the chimney. Descend by the same route. It is possible to continue all the way down the glacier to P.2271 and climb 150m back up to the Wiesbadenerhütte. It is also possible to descend to the Swiss CAS Camanni Tuoi Hütte, either by the very steep gully from the ski depot (S), or by crossing the ridge at P.3041 to the La Cudera glacier, keeping as high (North) as possible. The kleiner Piz Buin (3255m) can also be climbed from the Buinlücke by going around the ridge to the foot of its North flank, In good conditions this is a relatively easy climb of about 200m). Good views of Piz Buin Grond.
