Val Maggia - Terra di Mezzo

A steep crag with some good endurance routes in the 6c to 7a range. Faces west, so gets the afternoon sun, in winter this leaves early. Best in Spring and Autumn. The rock is a bit loose in places, wear a helmet. Bolting is good.

Region
Switzerland - Tessin
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
700m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6b - 7b
Faces
West
Sun
in the afternoon
Directions

Drive from Locarno up the Magglia valley through Cevio, and about 700m after the turning to Brontallo there is a parking spot for about 4 cars on the right opposite 2 small houses "Casa Valeria". Follow the track between the houses, it soon meets a better path going to Menzonia. Turn right and follow this for a few minutes to a house on the left with a cairn marking a small path up through the woods. Follow this steeply for 15 minutes to the crag. Routes are described from Left to Right, the first routes you reach are on the right, many routes have their names painted at the bottom.

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR

SECTOR BALCONE. At the far left hand side of the crag
01 Aspettando un lieto fine 7b 40m
02 Monregalesi al gin 7a+ 40m
03 Wet Dream 7b 40m
04 Mr White 40m
05 Frutto Bacato 7b 30m
06 El chupa cavra 7b+ 35m
07 Nano mania 7a 20m
08 Fai x 3 7a 30m
09 Beer what else? 7b 30m
10 Willia Shakesbeer 30m
11 Menabrea 7c 30m
12 Hefemangel 7a+ 30m
13 La Duchessa Belga 7b+ 30m
20 SECTOR

MAIN WALL. The wall that you first reach
21 The Serpent 6b

At the very left hand side of the main wall
22 Sukha Pranayama 6b
23 Baby Killer 6c
24 2DTEQ 7a+
25 Preliminari pericolosi 7a
26 El Ciolapegor 6c
27 Cavra Magra 6b+ 25m
28 L'Allucinato 7a 25m

Low in the grade
29 La sarta bianca
30 Aventinus 7a 35m
31 Efes 6c 35m
32 Tabernik 6c+ 35m
33 To beer or not to beer 6c 35m
34 The snake 6c 35m
35 Oktober Fest 6c+ 35m
36 Shpanda nishpanda 6c 35m
37 La biscia 7a 35m
38 Beer is Life 7a 35m
39 El hogar de las estrallas 7a 35m
40 Ichnusa 7a+ 35m
41 La renna ubriaca 7b 40m

1st part 7a, extension 7b
42 Soft Domination 7a
43 A tutta birra 7a
44 V for Vendetta 7a
45 Gesu bambino ce l'ha piccolo 7a+
46 1,2,3,4 babibouchette... santé! 7b

Crags in this region: