Val Maggia - Cevio

One of the best crags in Tessin for those who climb above 7a. Climbing in Cevio is on a gently overhanging wall with many classic routes. It is in the shade in the afternoon, stays dry in the rain and as a result most routes are (too) well chalked.

Region
Switzerland - Tessin
Rock Type
Granite
Altitude
500m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6b - 8a
Faces
North East
Sun
In the morning
Directions

Drive from Locarno up the Magglia valley to Cevio. Shortly after the village there is a church on the left, 400m before a hospital. Parking opposite the church. On foot follow the path and small road behind the church which leads to a gravel track going into the wood. 20 metres after reaching the track there is a path on the left that leads up to the crag. It has a sharp left turn at a boulder field. 20 minutes from the car

Climbing topo cevio tessin

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Scacco matto 6a 25m

The first route on the left as you reach the crag. A pleasant wall climb on good holds. The route has two extension pitches at 5c and 5c+. The top pitch at least is not recommended.
02 Take 5 7c 15m

Moves right after the first pitch of Scacco Matto
03 Pitch Black 7b+ 20m

Starts just to the right of Scacco Matto
04 Trigger x 7b+ 20m
05 Nomad 6c 25m
06 Micronism 7a+ 25m
07 Nomad Su 6c+ 20m
08 Time is running out 7b 30m
09 Defacto 7a+ 30m
10 Rock Palast 7c 30m
11 Supercrack 7a+ 30m

The obvious diagonal crack is hard and pumpy, to a difficult exit and no hands rest. The upper wall is still demanding on layaways and slopers. Maybe worth 7b overall.
12 Hang Loose 7c 30m
13 Ederinik 7a 25m

The first route on the main wall after the ivy. A tricky crack leads to strenuous moves round the bulge and a sustained upper wall. 
14 Logo 7b 25m
15 Camoscio d'Oro 7a+ 30m
16 La Ghisa 7b+ 35m
17 In crescendo 6b+ 15m

The warm up saves the best to last.
18 Porte Celesti 7b+ 35m
19 Flat Board 8a 30m
20 Eric & Sohn 7c+ 35m
21 Sasso Piccolo 7c+ 30m
22 Il Bucco 7c 30m
23 Pirat 7c 25m
24 Little Wings 7c 25m
25 Der Widersacher 7c 25m
26 Lady Bon 7b+ 25m
27 Pappagallo 7b+ 30m
28 Capten 7b 30m
29 Hinkebein 7b 30m
30 Protea 6c+ 20m

A tricky move higher up that may be more than 6c+
31 Unit 2 7c 30m

The extension to Protea
32 Timesteps 7a+ 30m

A hard bouldery start (7a+) then a superb and easier corner crack (6c)
33 Just do it 8b 30m
34 Meega Grip 7c+ 30m
35 Cioccolato caldo 8b 30m
37 Dark Moon 8b+ 30m
38 Guardo in Alto 7b+ 35m
39 Cento Punti 7c 30m
40 L'amoure é confiture 8a 30m
41 Alpen Sud 7b 30m
42 Granit Guide 6c+ 20m

Crags in this region: