Gempen Sandührliwand

A very sunny crag that dries quickly and can sometimes be too hot even in the coldest months! Excellent wall climbing often on pockets, well bolted.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
750m
Number of routes
100
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Duck and Cover Direkt 7b 23m
02 Duck and Cover 7a+ 23m
02a El culo abierto 6a

just left of the corner. details not checked

03 unknown 7b

grade not checked

04 Vox Media 6a+ 19m
05 Fidimangenggis 6c 19m
06 Sensationelle 6a 21m
07 Sensationelle Verschneidung 4b 20m ***

The classic long crack

08 Edi the Eagle 6a 21m ***

the arete moving right out of the crack. Excellent

09 La linea 6b *

the corner. Harder than it looks

10 Sensitive 6a+

the left hand side of the wall

11 Négligé 6b+ 17m ***

climb the little overlap and up the wall.Excellent

12 Sandührliweg 6a+
13 Sandührliweg Einstiegsvariante 5c+ ***

Follow the left hand side of the arete on good pockets.

14 Cote d'or 6a

wall left of the corner, it is also possible to finish up the arete at about the same grade.

15 Pas mal 6b+

LHS of the wall

16 Raja 6c **

Tricky moves to enter and leave the hanging corner

17 Raja con dios 6c

As for Raja, but move right round the overlap

18 Missing Link 6a
19 Bärgweg 5b

the corner

20 Zugzwang 6b+ 17m

The wall just right of the corner. It is also possible to traverse out of this at half height to the arete "Zwingender Zug zum Zugzwang" 7a+

21 Direkter Zugzwang 6b+ 15m

The arete

22 Geh doch nach Moskau 6a 15m **

The LH side of of the upper wall

23 Teamwork 6b **

More pocketed wall climbing. Finish to the right of "Geh doch"

24 Chicago 6b+ 15m **

sustained climbing

25 Egopone 6c+ 15m **

Just to the right of Chicago. Very close but nice moves

26 Al Capone 6c 15m **

Climb just left of the corner with a tricky sequence to reach the small roof.

27 Al Caselzer 5c 15m ***

The obvious corner. Nice climbing

28 Oedipussi 6a+ 9m **

The first route to the right of the corner

29 Januarloch 7b 16m *

A few hard moves at the start

30 Lochgarten 7a

No details, Looks to be about 7b

Crags in this region: