France

Aiglun is a beautiful village in the East of Provence next to an impressive gorge. The crag that overlooks the village reaches a height of 300m and is of major significance, having many fine long routes. The rock is mostly excellent. The south facing nature of the crag means that it is most suited to climbing in Autumn, Winter and Spring, it is a cauldron on sunny days in the summer. Care needs to be taken with the length of the routes during short winter days, it is easy to run out of time or lose the warmth of the sun when it disappears behind the hills.

A large, important crag with many routes, especially in the harder grades. It predominately faces south, although the angular nature of the crag means that many buttresses are in the shade either early morning or late afternoon, and some of the steeper ones in the shade all day! It is located above the Doub in a very peaceful and scenic setting and has many long pitches of 30m and above. It is popular, so many of the routes are polished, and grades can sometimes feel tough.

Sous Buen is a pleasant crag in a beautiful location overlooking the Doubs. It has single pitch routes in all grades from 3 to 8, up to 30m in length, many with the name written at the bottom. It is well bolted, has easy access,and as a result is very popular. Some of the older routes are polished, which can be a problem on hot days. There are however many newer routes still in good condition, and the crag gets the shade in the afternoon. There are not so many routes in the very hard grades, but the tough grading makes up for this!

Claret is a small, pretty village 20km North of Montpellier. The crag faces directly south on an escarpment just above the village, and is a useful stop over place en route along the motorways of the south of France. The climbing is steep and polished, and on hot days is best avoided, although the roofs provide shade and the rest of the crag loses the sun after about 4pm. It dries quickly after rain but some of the routes, especially the tufas, seep after prolonged rain. However in cooler winter, spring and autumn conditions, it has some testing and enjoyable routes.

A friendly little crag with some  excellent mid grade routes. It has easy access, gets the sun until mid afternoon and is well bolted with mostly slabby / vertical routes up to 30m in length.

The crag has two distinct butresses, Les balcons des villes on the left (looking in) and Les jardins des villes on the right. The direct approach path arrives between the two.

Les Balcon has roughly 40 routes between 6b and 7c on the LHS and between 4c and 6a

Les Jardins has about 50 routes mostly between 5b and 7b.

Situated deep in the forest, this small gorge with its quaint little cave has a handful of steep and difficult climbs up to 30m in length. It provides welcome shade on hot summer days, although is slow to dry after prolonged rain. The crag is not perfectly solid, so take care not to kill any tourists wandering through the gorge.

Gueberschwihr is a beautiful little village in the middle of the vineyards on the edge of the Vosges. Just above the village is a sandstone escarpment with some very pleasant climbing and bouldering. It is easily accessible from the Rhine Valley, and s very popular, especially on sunny Sundays. The climbing is of good quality, very well bolted, with a bit of something for everyone crammed into a few small cliffs.

One of the most important crags in the central Vosges, Kronthal has a large selection of routes, mostly from 7a upwards. Access is easy, just a 2 minute walk, and the routes are varied and well bolted on good quarried sandstone. Perfect for projecting. Climbing is possible in the rain, and the south facing aspect means it is better in the cooler months. Kronthal does have its drawbacks though; the proximity of the busy road gives it a very urban feel; parking can be difficult and the lack of easy routes limits the possibilities. Despite this it will remain an important and popular crag.

A pleasant crag with some excellent routes on sometimes sandy rock.

An interesting granite crag in a beautiful location with multi pitch routes up to 70m in length. The routes are well bolted and finish on the top of the large pinnacle "Rocher Hans" that overlooks Lac Blanc. A couple of friends and wires may still be useful, depending on the route. The area is a popular tourist destination, with bathing in the lake when it is hot enough in the summer. The routes themselves are rarely crowded.

One of the best and most popular crags in the North of the Vosges. Langenfels has many excellent, well bolted routes on a number of towers.  A beautiful place with some excellent climbing. In the heat of summer, the small lake just down the road offers ice cream, beer,  sunbathing and swimming.

The climbing at Orgon is in a surprisingly beautiful location given its proximity to the Autoroute du Soleil. It has a small lake and a cirque of beautiful crags that has excellent pocketed and well bolted wall and slab climbing. Most of the 250+ routes are in the V to 6c range, with the Canalissime sector having routes up to 9a. There is a campsite next to the lake. Climbing is possible all year round, although most people will find the summer months too hot. Autumn, Winter and Spring are ideal.

An historical village that has been brought back to life by the wealth of climbing within walking distance. Orpierre has climbs up to 8bish, many routes in the 7a to 7c range, but with the majority of the routes in the beginner and intermediate category. It is a beautiful location, with many of the crags profiting from the winter sun, that come into the shade later in the day. Sunny winter days, spring and autumn are the best seasons.

It is popular with groups, and as a result most of the routes are getting very polished, but despite this, it is still a lovely place to climb.

A pleasant crag a few kilometres North of La Turbie. The crag has many gouttes and incut holds, and although polished there are lots of excellent mid grade routes. It gets the sun until mid afternoon, so an ideal sunny winter venue, or for the evenings in the warmer months.  The routes are well bolted and their names are often written on small pebbles at the bottom.

A friendly crag just above the village of Philippsbourg. It has two faces, an overhanging East side with some hard, strenuous routes, and a vertical south side with some mid grade routes. Not a huge number of routes, but all of excellent quality, well bolted and ease of access