Galenstock from Albert Heim Hütte
Galenstock is the highest mountain in central Switzerland, and offers a superb ski tour with a moderately difficult mountaineering finish. Situated at the top of the Tiefengletscher, which itself is ringed by half a dozen impressive peaks, Galenstock towers above all of them and offers views over practically the whole of Switzerland.
From Realp it is usual to skin up to the Albert Heim hütte, stay overnight there, and climb the mountain the next day. Get to Realp by road or by train. Put the skins on and head up the Furkapss towards Tiefenbach. Follow the pass as far as the small Galenstock collection of houses (point 1995, the last hairpin) and then head in a north westerly direction to meet the track that comes up from Tiefenbach. Either continue northwest contouring the mountain side, gradually turning northwards until you reach the small plateau just below the hut, or climb steeply up to the ridge on your right and follow this to the hut. About 3 hours from Realp.
The most popular route to the summit. From the Albert Heim Hütte head west onto the Tiefengletscher and follow it either northwards underneath the impressive cirque of of granite peaks in a huge arc, or up its southern edge to the north of Gross Bielenhorn. Either way arrive underneath the lowest point of the ridge that descends northwards from Galenstock. Leave the skis here and climb the steep snow slab to the ridge. Then follow the very exposed arete to the summit. Although technically not difficult, a fall from this arete would probably be fatal and full alpine equipment, crampons, ice axe and a short rope is necessary. It is not suitable for soft snowboard shoes. Descend by the same route. Given the right conditions it is also possible to traverse the summit to descend to the Rhone glacier and the Belvedere on the Furkapass
Ski tours in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
