Switzerland

Crag

A pleasant crag with a few excellent routes, on cracks and pocketed walls, but also some loose rock.  

Number of routes
20
Range of Routes
5b to 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

A small but very worthwhile crag close to Simplon Dorf. It is an excellent summer venue being located at 1500m, and in the shade in the afternoon. The climbing is steep, on holds that vary from large jugs to small crimps. Good endurance helps. Bolting is excellent, the approach is short.

Number of routes
50
Rock Type
Gneiss
Sun
Gets the sun until about midday

A beautiful looking mountain, that is relatively easy to reach. The last 100m are steep and climbed on foot, the difficulty depending on the conditions. There is a couloir on the east side to climb with a chain in it. If this is visible then it might be possible without ice axe and crampons. If it is't then these are recommended. It is about grade III. If the conditions are not suitable, Spitzmeilen has a sister peak, Wissmilen that is very easy to reach.

Start Altitude
1950m
Finish Altitude
2501m
Height gain
600m
Difficulty
WS
Time to climb
3 hours from Maschgenkamm

An impressive and popular peak, Sustenhorn is the largest mountain above Sustenpass and glaciated on both sides. The glacier has many crevasses, both on the steeper lower section, and the upper section. Care is needed, particularly in early winter when the crevasses are not fully filled with snow, Many parties choose not to rope up, but anyone who has been there in summer and seen the number and depth of the crevasses will probably want to!

   
Start Altitude
1865m
Finish Altitude
3503m
Height gain
1700m
Difficulty
WS+
Time to climb
Allow 3 hours to Tierberglihütte, and then 3 hours to the summit

Situated on the corner of Kantons Berne, Uri and Obwalden, Grassen falls just short of 3000m. It has stunning views of the walls of Titlis and the nearby glaciers, as well as one of the most significant ski descents in Central Switzerland.

   
Start Altitude
1450m
Finish Altitude
2946m
Height gain
1500m
Difficulty
ZS+
Time to climb
2.5 hours to Sustlihütte, 2.5 hours to Grassen, and the long descent
Crag

Tannenfluh consists of two distinct parts. A crag on the hillside and a crag dug into the hillside. The first has a few separate buttresses with some nice mid grade routes. The second, called Get Wet Canyon, is an interesting place to visit, can take a long time to dry, but can be cool even in the hottest of summers. Some of the routes in the canyon are very good, a few though are quite dirty.

The main Tannenfluh crag is a pleasant series of buttresses with some nice mid grade routes. 

 

Number of routes
40
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

One of Central Switzerland's better crags, Telli has a range of routes from 5c slabs through to steep 8b walls. The rock is generally good, and on the easier routes at least has good holds. Access is relatively easy, with the added attraction of swimming in the lake. It's low, sheltered position also means climbing is possible on sunny winter days, as well as in the shade on hot summer mornings. On hot summer afternoons there is a pleasant deep water soloing crag just below the car park that offers great sport after a hard morning.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8b
Rock Type
Limestone

Tödi, or Piz Russein as it is also known, is the largest mountain in the Glarus Alps, and as such a prized target for ski tourers. It is usual to climb it in two days, but the super strong also manage it one.

 
Start Altitude
800m
Finish Altitude
3614m
Height gain
3000m
Difficulty
S+
Time to climb
4 hours to the Fridolinshütte then 5 to 6 hours to the sumit
Climbing Area

A big varied crag with routes to suit all tastes.

The climbing is on typical Basler Jura limestone, steep walls that are smooth and peppered with pockets and edges.

Tüfleten is popular in the winter when it is sheltered and gets a lot sun.

Number of routes
60
Crag

Tüfleten is a relatively large, varied crag with routes to suit most tastes. The climbing is on typical Basler Jura limestone; slabs and steep walls that are smooth and peppered with pockets and edges. The routes are often hard to read on sight. The crag has a sunny disposition, this can be good in the winter but often too hot in summer. The route Shogun is probably the hardest in the Basler Jura. It took the first ascensionist  Eric Talmadge13 years until he redpointed it in the year 2000.

Number of routes
30
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

Tüfleten is an excellent crag with something to suit most tastes. The right hand side has lots of test pieces from 7a to 9a.

Number of routes
30
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

An impressive crag set in a pretty location.

Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
4c - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

One of the best crags in Tessin for those who climb above 7a. Climbing in Cevio is on a gently overhanging wall with many classic routes. It is in the shade in the afternoon, stays dry in the rain and as a result most routes are (too) well chalked.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6b - 8a
Rock Type
Granite
Sun
In the morning
Crag

An excellent crag of high quality granite with a bit of something for everyone. Prato is set in a beautiful location, and has some excellent routes. Well worth a visit. It gets the sun in the afternoon

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
3 - 8
Rock Type
Granite
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

A steep crag with some good endurance routes in the 6c to 7a range. Faces west, so gets the afternoon sun, in winter this leaves early. Best in Spring and Autumn. The rock is a bit loose in places, wear a helmet. Bolting is good.

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
6b - 7b
Rock Type
Granite
Sun
in the afternoon