Switzerland

Climbing wall

A purpose built facility belonging to the SAC. Laufen climbing wall is primarily for leading, although there is also a bouldering area. Routes are up to 19m in length, with something for everyone. The wall is mostly unsupervised, and has an electronic system to enter. A key card can be purchased at the nearby "Go/In" restaurant, a few minutes walk away.  https://www.facebook.com/pages/Restaurant-Goin/145633415480660

Climbing wall

A popular wall in the Gundeldingen area of Basel. Not so high, good for beginners and for developing your power.

Telephone
061 331 07 07
Crag

A not very popular crag that does have some nice routes. In particular the climbing in the central section is good, on pockets and edges on mostly solid rock. It gets the afternoon sun and dries quickly. Hot in summer, pleasant in winter. The routes on the left wing are shorter and less inviting. The crag lies just a few hundred metres from the village of Erschwil, on the Passwang road, which means it can be noisy on busy weekends. Most of the routes have a nice pebble nameplate at the bottom.

Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
6a to 7c, the best routes are 6c and above
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
In the afternoon
Crag

One of the best crags for hard sport climbing in the Bernese Oberland. Naturally this has led to many of the routes getting polished, but despite this it remains a favourite destination. The climbing is very interesting, on a limestone / sandstone mix, with all types of holds, from big jugs to tiny crimps through various slopers. Routes are up to 30m in length, generally solid and well bolted, although the bolts can sometimes be spacy.

The view from the parking of the Eiger, Monch and the Jungfrau, adds to the atmosphere and attraction.

Number of routes
120
Range of Routes
6b to 8c
Rock Type
Sandstone
Sun
In the morning, but often sheltered by the trees

An attractive and challenging mountain; what Blümberg lacks in size, it makes up for in quality. The mountain is accessible from the delightful Lidernenhütte,  but does not give itself up easily, with a challenging traverse, and the last few meters on foot. If conditions are not good it is best left for another day due to the risk of avalanche and difficult navigation in poor visibility. The descents however are beautiful, whether back to Käppeliberg, as described here, or all the way down to Muotathal.

Start Altitude
1727m
Finish Altitude
1177m
Height gain
700m
Difficulty
ZS

The Lidernenhütte is an excellent base for ski touring, with half a dozen summits easily accessible from the hut. Here three are described. One, two or all three summits are possible within one day from the top of the Käppeliberg gondola, with an overnight stay at the hut as an option. The tour offers fine views of central Switzerland, without any great difficulty or danger.

Start Altitude
1700m
Finish Altitude
1700m
Height gain
1500m
Difficulty
WS
Time to climb
Hagelstock 1.5hrs, Spilauerstock 45 mins, Rossstock 1.75 hours. Allow 5 to 6 hours for all 3 including descents
Crag

A small crag with some excellent routes on a limestone / sandstone mix. The view from the restaurant at the top is worth a visit in its own right.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
5c - 7c
Rock Type
Sandstone
Sun
From 11h to 17h, although the trees provide a lot of shade
Crag

For beauty alone Melchsee is worth a visit. A small ski village resting peacefully alongside a couple of lakes, amid stunning mountain scenery, it has everything for the outdoor enthusiast. In winter, downhill skiing, a couple of pleasant ski tours to Rotsandnollen and Graustock and a long cross country piste going round Tannensee and Engstlensee. In summer mountain biking, fishing, walking and a kilometre long crag full of middle grade rock climbs.

Number of routes
120
Rock Type
Limestone
Skitour

A nice tour, easily accessible from Oberalppass. From the summit, if conditions allow it is possible to ski back to Andermatt, or continue to reach the SAC Maighels hütte, from where more tours are possible. Maighelshütte is one of the sources of the Rhine, where the river starts its 1200km journey to the North Sea at Rotterdam. On its way it will pass through Switerland, Germany, France and Holland. The Rhine is the second longest river in Europe after the Danube.

Start Altitude
2040m
Finish Altitude
2740m
Height gain
700m
Difficulty
WS
Time to climb
2 hours to the summit
Climbing Area

Along with Gempen, Falkenfluh, Schauenburgfluh and Tüfleten; Pelzli is one of the major crags in the Basler Jura. With many distinct buttresses set in the middle of  a beautiful wood, it is a delight to climb here. The rock is generally solid, and the bolting usually good. The downside is that many of the routes are becoming polished. Pelzli consists of two distinct parts. The lower section, which has the impressive Daumenfels, a 30m free standing pinnacle, where the easiest route to the top is a 4th category scramble, but also with many longer, harder climbs.

Number of routes
200
Crag

The lower section of Pelzli is just a few minutes walk from the road and consists of the spectacular Daumenfels, and two smaller buttresses, Le Doigt and Mättelifels. Climbing on the Daumenfels is satisfying, in that the only way to the summit is by climbing, and there are routes on all 4 of its faces. Le Doigt is smaller with just a few shorter routes, Mättelifels is more impressive with a long overhanging nose and some smaller buttresses next to it.  

Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Although predominately south facing, some shade can be found amongst the trees
Crag

The upper section of Pelzli consists of series of buttresses and boulders. The climbing is excellent with routes in all grades from 4c to 8a.

Number of routes
15
Range of Routes
4c - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
Although south facing, some of the buttresses only get the sun in the afternoon
Scrambles and Alpine climbs

Situated above Pontresina, the Biancograt is a classic ridge climb leading to the summit of Piz Bernina.

Difficulty
IV - technical climbing
Time required
Allow 3 to 4 hours to reach the Swiss hut. After an overnight stop it will take 5 to 7 hours from the hut to Piz Bianco. Then 1 hour to reach Piz Bernina, unless the ridge is very busy, in which case longer. 1 to 2 hours for the descent to the Marco e Rosa hut.
Skitour

An enjoyable and relatively easy tour, the first half through the forest and then lots of open, unspoilt scenery. Descent is either by the same route, or as a variation you can descend east via Schwarzsee to the Gronda valley and Meierhof.  It is also possible to continue to Piz Lad (WS), from where a more difficult but beautiful descent is possible (ZS) to the south east via Blausee into the Grond valley (not shown on the topo here). Care is needed with conditions, the slopes are steep

Start Altitude
1350m
Finish Altitude
2550m
Height gain
1200m
Difficulty
L
Time to climb
3 - 4 hours to the top
Crag

An excellent crag with about 50 routes, mostly in the 7a to 7c range. Stays dry in the rain, but seeps after prolonged wet spells. Well equipped, occasionally fragile rock, helmets recommended at the foot of the crag.

Number of routes
50
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small (by Rätikon standards), easily accessible cliff above Partnunsee. Seeflueli offers a couple of short, reasonably well bolted routes which nevertheless retain an alpine character. 

Number of routes
3
Range of Routes
6b - 7a+
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

The Sulzfluh is situated at the east end of Rätikon, the chain of mountains above Schiers and St. Antonien that forms the border between Switzerland and Austria. Whereas Kirchlispitze at the west end of the range is known for its long, hard routes, Sulzfluh offers similar long routes, but perhaps at a more amenable grade. The area is beautiful, the cliffs rise above Partnunsee, which in summer offers a cool bath after a long day on the crag. The rock is mostly excellent, with water washed runnels forming many of the routes that rise to the limestone pavements around the summit.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6a - 8?
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A series of detached pinnacles with good quality rock and some fine routes above Roschenz.

Number of routes
20
Rock Type
Limestone
Scrambles and Alpine climbs

Rigi Hochflue is the most alpine of the 3 Rigi summits , the only one without a cable car to the top. The summit is pyramid shaped and protected on all sides by cliffs. All the routes to the summit are exposed, but not difficult and offer beautiful views over Vierwaldstättersee.

   
Difficulty
I - easy scrambling
Time required
The walk takes about 4 hours in total
Skitour

A beautiful ski mountain, accessible from either Sustenpass or Göschenen.

   
Start Altitude
1300m
Finish Altitude
3220m
Height gain
2000m
Difficulty
ZS
Time to climb
5 - 6 hours

A popular and very worthwhile tour from Melchsee Frutt. A not too long ascent, beautiful views from the summit and a long descent combine to make this a great day out. Melchsee Frutt is a busy ski resort, and queues in the morning can be long, but the village itself with its lakes, mountain views and traditional atmosphere show the reason why. Once you start the tour though, the crowds are soon left behind. The route itself is not too steep, with just one tricky section on the uphill reaching the col before the summit.

Start Altitude
1902m
Finish Altitude
2700m
Height gain
800m
Difficulty
ZS
Time to climb
About 3 hours up and then 1500m of descent
Crag

A quiet crag near to the pretty little village of Himmelried. The routes are relatively short, but what they lack in height they more than make up for in difficulty! Perhaps the grades are boulder grades rather than French sport grades. The crag is north west facing and so mostly shady, this is good in the summer, but slow drying the rest of the year.

Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
5c - 8a
Rock Type
Limestone
Sun
The crag gets the sun In the evening in the summer, otherwise in the shade
Crag

Excellent routes up to 40m in length. Mostly good rock, and positive holds. The crag is protected from the sun by the trees in summer, but in contrast some parts get the sun in the winter. The left hand side of Schattenberg has generally shorter and easier routes. The middle has the hardest, and the right hand section the longest.

Number of routes
200
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag
Schauenburgfluh is an important crag near to Basel, and one of the largest in the Basler Jura. With 40m high walls and nearly 100 routes, it has lots of long wall climbs to offer, mostly in the middle grades. Some of the routes have two pitches, although most can be done in a single run out with an 80m rope. The routes are generally solid, but especially at the top, there is still some loose rock around, and helmets are advised.
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
5a - 7b
Rock Type
Limestone
Crag

A small, scenic and interesting winter crag. The cliimbing is on a vertical wall with well bolted routes that are often tough for their grade. Up to 25 metres in length.

Number of routes
30
Range of Routes
6a - 8a
Rock Type
Sandstone
Sun
From about 10am to sunset in winter